Typewriter Wiki - User contributions [en]

Blickensderfer 6 Type Cylinder

2023-01-29T06:42:08Z

Ryanne:

Type cylinders are specific to the keyboard layout. When looking for additional ones online, check the layout unless you want to learn a new one with no key labels.

These type cylinders are made of a hardened rubber that ages over time and become brittle. Do not drop them, as they may shatter.<ref>One of Ryanne's is badly cracked.</ref> Also, clean after each use with a soft damp cloth by patting rather than wiping. If more cleaning is needed, use a very small amount of a non-citrus or petroleum based dish detergent in water with a soft toothbrush, rinse with cool water, then pat dry. Examples of detergent not to use: Dawn, Joy. Examples of safe detergents: Seventh Generation Free and Clear, Method. All detergents like this do have some citric acid, so use sparingly and rinse clean quickly. Do not soak in water, as this can break down the rubber. Also store somewhere dark unless your display has UV blocking film or glass.

Each cylinder should have a small metal clip at the top centered on the central shaft of the cylinder. To remove from the machine, spin this clip one hole to the left or right and lift the cylinder. To attach a new cylinder, look for the small hole on the bottom. This goes on the flat piece next to the center shaft on the machine. Place the cylinder evenly on both and it should drop into place. Spin the clip back, so it catches under the lip of the flat metal piece that went through the smaller hole. If this clip is missing, your alignment will usually be off, and CAP and FIG will not work properly. You can make one with a small piece of wire.

<references />

[[File:Blick Type Cylinder.jpg|thumb|Blick Type Cylinder]]

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2021-09-21T21:35:32Z

Ryanne: /* Pliers */

Though typewriter repair may appear to be a dark art, requiring complicated and specialised tooling, most --if not all-- typewriter issues can be fixed with simple household materials and materials from the local hardware or surplus store. This is a list of common tools that you may encounter.

__TOC__

=Tools=

Tools are very important for getting inside your typewriter and for removing parts. Here are a few tools that should be included in every repairman's case.
==Screwdrivers==

You’ll want a nice set of screwdrivers. Gunners' and long precision screwdrivers are very nice, and you’ll also want some with bigger handles for a better grip and for use with larger screws. Flat-head screwdrivers are most commonly used, you will rarely find any other kind of screw head. Holdy screwdrivers are also nice for driving hard-to-hold tiny screws. You can never have too many screwdrivers. 
Make sure you have screwdrivers that fit the head of the screw well. Any looseness can cause stripping.

==Pliers==

Another essential tool of a typewriter repairman. Pliers are great for holding things and forming parts. A set of needle nose pliers is used for repairs that involve forming (bending) metal, and having two or 3 of various lengths and sizes can not only help with accessing parts that are deep within the machine, but also make it much easier to make parts bend in a precise manner.
One pair of long needle nose with rubber coating on the tips is highly recommended to prevent scratches.

==Wrenches==

Many typewriters have nuts and bolts, along with screws. A good set of wrenches are essential for loosening these. The most common nut/bolt you will come across is 1/4”. An adjustable wrench is also good for those odd sizes you come across every now and again.

==Dental Picks==
Highly recommended; dental picks are peerless when it comes to removing gunk from thin areas and accessing tiny gaps. One end may be bent into a hook to assist drawband repairs. 
Check your grocery or drug store's dental care area, or look for clay tools at a craft store. It's a good idea to have plastic tips as well as metal if you can find them.

'''Spring Hooks''' are similar to dental picks, but are specifically designed for attaching extension springs. Useful, but not essential. Most dental picks will do the same job.

==Brushes==

* '''Toothbrush''' - hard stiffness recommended.
* '''Brass Brush''' - use only on unpainted metal, like typeslugs. Do not use on brass or very soft metals or anything painted.
* '''Straw cleaning brush''' and/or '''pipe cleaners''' - to get into small areas.
* '''Car detailing''' or '''soft paintbrushes''' - let you work cleaners into crevasses without being abrasive.

=Chemicals=
You want to use as little chemicals and oils as possible, but the most commonly used are below.

==Putty==
You can buy typeslug cleaning putty that can be used multiple times. Use it each time after you use your typewriter to keep the characters looking sharp. This putty will not remove old, caked on ink and dirt. Make sure you brush everything, first.

==Solvents, Scrubs, and Degreasers==
Solvents are commonly used to loosen caked on dirt, dust, and other gunk. Here are some common solvents and degreasers. Be careful with these as they are not good for paint or rubber and will also dissolve those. Do NOT EVER use these on decals.

* '''Isopropyl Alcohol''' - Alcohol is one of the less aggressive chemical solvents. It does not smell too harshly, and evaporates quickly. Isopropyl Alcohol is more accessible and less volatile.
* '''Mineral Spirits''' - Mineral Spirits are more volatile and aggressive than Isopropyl Alcohol. Be very careful with this, as the fumes are not good for your brain.
* '''Degreasers''' - There are various degreasers you can use. The most recommended are Mean Green, Simple Green, Purple Power, and Zep Orange. Once you have cleaned with these, you will need to flush the area with something like Isopropyl alcohol. Water can be used, as well, but make sure you get everything very dry.
* '''Dish Soap''' - A mild degreaser and surfactant, hand dish detergent is sometimes the best option. Try to avoid things with petroleum like Dawn. Use diluted in water with a damp cloth or toothbrush.
* '''Soft Scrub/Cif Cream/Viss Cleanser''' - Do not get the type with bleach in it! This can be used safely with a toothbrush on crinkle paint, the rough stuff from the late 40s through early 60s. Please test in an area that's not easily seen, first. Any problems with peeling paint will be made worse by scrubbing. This stuff is great for cleaning platens and making them a bit more grippy, too. Make sure you wipe it down well with a damp cloth a few times to get all residue off. Never use it on gloss paint!

==Penetrants==

These should not be used as oil, even if the package says you can.
These include:
* '''WD40''' - ubiquitous therefor easy to find, can be used to clean some components
* '''PB Blast''' - strong smelling, use with ventilation, not recommended for cleaning
* '''3n1 Oil''' - easy to find in a drip bottle with narrow tip, less smell than the above options
* and more.

You will want something to free stuck screws. Drip some onto the screw head and let it penetrate into the threads. Don't spray it on your typewriter, as you'll have to clean it all off. Be patient and wait before trying to remove screws you haven't had out recently. It can be difficult to find proper replacements if you strip them.

==Oil==

The proper oil for typewriters is ''light machine oil''.

Typical uses:
* guns
* sewing machines
* instruments like trumpets
* things that need consistent lubrication with metal on metal rubbing
* on bare metal to help prevent flash rust

Typical brands:
* Rem-Oil
* Hoppes No. 9
* Marvel Mystery Oil
* Singer Sewing Machine Oil
* Liberty Oil

It's useful to have a needle tip applicator for lubrication, because you want to use the smallest amount possible and get it exactly where needed.

Despite popular belief in some places on the internet, oil is good for typewriters, in certain places. Manufacturers of typewriters like the Smith-Premier and Oliver came with oiling instructions and tools for a reason.

The belief that oil is bad for typewriters comes from this: DO NOT OVER-OIL, AND NEVER OIL DIRTY PARTS. Keep oil to places like carriage rails, carriage wheels, and the escapement. Sometimes the ribbon system, backspace, and tabulator mechanisms need oiling too. It is generally not recommended to oil the segment, because it is hard to clean thoroughly, but if it is ascertained that the segment is perfectly clean, light oil will improve the typewriter's running.

==Rust Removers==
=== Chemicals ===
* '''Do not put any of these on anything but bare metal.'''
* '''Evaporust''' - Nontoxic, water based, biodegradable, liquid. Apply with cotton swab.
* '''Naval Jelly''' - A bit toxic, use in a ventilated place, gel so it sticks on better. Apply with cotton swab or small paintbrush.
* '''CLR''' - good for soaking very rusty parts that are unpainted metal and can be removed from the machine.

=== Physical ===
* '''Fine Wet-Sand''' - sandpaper or sponge meant to be used with water. This will keep dust down and quickly strips rust off things like rails.
* '''Emery Cloth''' - This is basically a very fine sandpaper. It's good for polishing. If you use wet sand, this should be your second step.
* '''Melamine Eraser''' - Works on surface rust, but takes a lot of elbow grease.
* '''Steel Wool''' - will leave shavings, so don't use on parts inside the machine without running a vacuum. Emery cloth is a better alternative.
* '''Fiberglass Pot Scrubber''' - can leave small fiberglass splinters, quite abrasive, only use on very tough rusted spots.

==Waxes and Polishes==
* '''Carnauba Wax''' - Use pure carnauba wax to polish gloss painted areas. Rub on sparingly, allow to haze, buff off with clean soft cloth.
* '''Cleaning Wax''' - Look for a carnauba based cleaning wax like Mother's and use elbow grease with something like a microfiber or terrycloth rag.
* '''Beeswax''' - Not for the lazy. Warm a small piece in your hand until it's pliable. "Write" on the paint, then buff in immediately with fast, strong strokes using cloth like an old t-shirt. Once none of the writing is visible, polish with soft cloth. If the surface feels slightly sticky, you didn't buff enough. It's a lot of work, but the advantage is a very smooth shine that's quite durable and warm rather than extra glossy.
* '''Polishing Compound''' - Do not use this on paint. You can use it in places where you had to remove rust from bare metal to help smooth them out again.
* '''Rubbing Compound''' - comes in various grits. You want very fine, like Mother's Rubbing compound, if you need to remove tar and nicotine from paint. Coarse grits will be more abrasive, but can be useful on rust or foreign paint.
* '''Rotary Tool Buffers''' - Some people like these and some do not. Be very gentle, and only use them on bare metal.

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2021-09-21T21:34:13Z

Ryanne: /* Oil */

Though typewriter repair may appear to be a dark art, requiring complicated and specialised tooling, most --if not all-- typewriter issues can be fixed with simple household materials and materials from the local hardware or surplus store. This is a list of common tools that you may encounter.

__TOC__

=Tools=

Tools are very important for getting inside your typewriter and for removing parts. Here are a few tools that should be included in every repairman's case.
==Screwdrivers==

You’ll want a nice set of screwdrivers. Gunners' and long precision screwdrivers are very nice, and you’ll also want some with bigger handles for a better grip and for use with larger screws. Flat-head screwdrivers are most commonly used, you will rarely find any other kind of screw head. Holdy screwdrivers are also nice for driving hard-to-hold tiny screws. You can never have too many screwdrivers. 
Make sure you have screwdrivers that fit the head of the screw well. Any looseness can cause stripping.

==Pliers==

Another essential tool of a typewriter repairman. Pliers are great for holding things and forming parts. A set of needle nose pliers is used for repairs that involve forming (bending) metal, and having two or 3 of various lengths and sizes can not only help with accessing parts that are deep within the machine, but also make it much easier to make parts bend in a precise manner.

==Wrenches==

Many typewriters have nuts and bolts, along with screws. A good set of wrenches are essential for loosening these. The most common nut/bolt you will come across is 1/4”. An adjustable wrench is also good for those odd sizes you come across every now and again.

==Dental Picks==
Highly recommended; dental picks are peerless when it comes to removing gunk from thin areas and accessing tiny gaps. One end may be bent into a hook to assist drawband repairs. 
Check your grocery or drug store's dental care area, or look for clay tools at a craft store. It's a good idea to have plastic tips as well as metal if you can find them.

'''Spring Hooks''' are similar to dental picks, but are specifically designed for attaching extension springs. Useful, but not essential. Most dental picks will do the same job.

==Brushes==

* '''Toothbrush''' - hard stiffness recommended.
* '''Brass Brush''' - use only on unpainted metal, like typeslugs. Do not use on brass or very soft metals or anything painted.
* '''Straw cleaning brush''' and/or '''pipe cleaners''' - to get into small areas.
* '''Car detailing''' or '''soft paintbrushes''' - let you work cleaners into crevasses without being abrasive.

=Chemicals=
You want to use as little chemicals and oils as possible, but the most commonly used are below.

==Putty==
You can buy typeslug cleaning putty that can be used multiple times. Use it each time after you use your typewriter to keep the characters looking sharp. This putty will not remove old, caked on ink and dirt. Make sure you brush everything, first.

==Solvents, Scrubs, and Degreasers==
Solvents are commonly used to loosen caked on dirt, dust, and other gunk. Here are some common solvents and degreasers. Be careful with these as they are not good for paint or rubber and will also dissolve those. Do NOT EVER use these on decals.

* '''Isopropyl Alcohol''' - Alcohol is one of the less aggressive chemical solvents. It does not smell too harshly, and evaporates quickly. Isopropyl Alcohol is more accessible and less volatile.
* '''Mineral Spirits''' - Mineral Spirits are more volatile and aggressive than Isopropyl Alcohol. Be very careful with this, as the fumes are not good for your brain.
* '''Degreasers''' - There are various degreasers you can use. The most recommended are Mean Green, Simple Green, Purple Power, and Zep Orange. Once you have cleaned with these, you will need to flush the area with something like Isopropyl alcohol. Water can be used, as well, but make sure you get everything very dry.
* '''Dish Soap''' - A mild degreaser and surfactant, hand dish detergent is sometimes the best option. Try to avoid things with petroleum like Dawn. Use diluted in water with a damp cloth or toothbrush.
* '''Soft Scrub/Cif Cream/Viss Cleanser''' - Do not get the type with bleach in it! This can be used safely with a toothbrush on crinkle paint, the rough stuff from the late 40s through early 60s. Please test in an area that's not easily seen, first. Any problems with peeling paint will be made worse by scrubbing. This stuff is great for cleaning platens and making them a bit more grippy, too. Make sure you wipe it down well with a damp cloth a few times to get all residue off. Never use it on gloss paint!

==Penetrants==

These should not be used as oil, even if the package says you can.
These include:
* '''WD40''' - ubiquitous therefor easy to find, can be used to clean some components
* '''PB Blast''' - strong smelling, use with ventilation, not recommended for cleaning
* '''3n1 Oil''' - easy to find in a drip bottle with narrow tip, less smell than the above options
* and more.

You will want something to free stuck screws. Drip some onto the screw head and let it penetrate into the threads. Don't spray it on your typewriter, as you'll have to clean it all off. Be patient and wait before trying to remove screws you haven't had out recently. It can be difficult to find proper replacements if you strip them.

==Oil==

The proper oil for typewriters is ''light machine oil''.

Typical uses:
* guns
* sewing machines
* instruments like trumpets
* things that need consistent lubrication with metal on metal rubbing
* on bare metal to help prevent flash rust

Typical brands:
* Rem-Oil
* Hoppes No. 9
* Marvel Mystery Oil
* Singer Sewing Machine Oil
* Liberty Oil

It's useful to have a needle tip applicator for lubrication, because you want to use the smallest amount possible and get it exactly where needed.

Despite popular belief in some places on the internet, oil is good for typewriters, in certain places. Manufacturers of typewriters like the Smith-Premier and Oliver came with oiling instructions and tools for a reason.

The belief that oil is bad for typewriters comes from this: DO NOT OVER-OIL, AND NEVER OIL DIRTY PARTS. Keep oil to places like carriage rails, carriage wheels, and the escapement. Sometimes the ribbon system, backspace, and tabulator mechanisms need oiling too. It is generally not recommended to oil the segment, because it is hard to clean thoroughly, but if it is ascertained that the segment is perfectly clean, light oil will improve the typewriter's running.

==Rust Removers==
=== Chemicals ===
* '''Do not put any of these on anything but bare metal.'''
* '''Evaporust''' - Nontoxic, water based, biodegradable, liquid. Apply with cotton swab.
* '''Naval Jelly''' - A bit toxic, use in a ventilated place, gel so it sticks on better. Apply with cotton swab or small paintbrush.
* '''CLR''' - good for soaking very rusty parts that are unpainted metal and can be removed from the machine.

=== Physical ===
* '''Fine Wet-Sand''' - sandpaper or sponge meant to be used with water. This will keep dust down and quickly strips rust off things like rails.
* '''Emery Cloth''' - This is basically a very fine sandpaper. It's good for polishing. If you use wet sand, this should be your second step.
* '''Melamine Eraser''' - Works on surface rust, but takes a lot of elbow grease.
* '''Steel Wool''' - will leave shavings, so don't use on parts inside the machine without running a vacuum. Emery cloth is a better alternative.
* '''Fiberglass Pot Scrubber''' - can leave small fiberglass splinters, quite abrasive, only use on very tough rusted spots.

==Waxes and Polishes==
* '''Carnauba Wax''' - Use pure carnauba wax to polish gloss painted areas. Rub on sparingly, allow to haze, buff off with clean soft cloth.
* '''Cleaning Wax''' - Look for a carnauba based cleaning wax like Mother's and use elbow grease with something like a microfiber or terrycloth rag.
* '''Beeswax''' - Not for the lazy. Warm a small piece in your hand until it's pliable. "Write" on the paint, then buff in immediately with fast, strong strokes using cloth like an old t-shirt. Once none of the writing is visible, polish with soft cloth. If the surface feels slightly sticky, you didn't buff enough. It's a lot of work, but the advantage is a very smooth shine that's quite durable and warm rather than extra glossy.
* '''Polishing Compound''' - Do not use this on paint. You can use it in places where you had to remove rust from bare metal to help smooth them out again.
* '''Rubbing Compound''' - comes in various grits. You want very fine, like Mother's Rubbing compound, if you need to remove tar and nicotine from paint. Coarse grits will be more abrasive, but can be useful on rust or foreign paint.
* '''Rotary Tool Buffers''' - Some people like these and some do not. Be very gentle, and only use them on bare metal.

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2021-09-21T21:27:30Z

Ryanne: /* Penetrants */

Though typewriter repair may appear to be a dark art, requiring complicated and specialised tooling, most --if not all-- typewriter issues can be fixed with simple household materials and materials from the local hardware or surplus store. This is a list of common tools that you may encounter.

__TOC__

=Tools=

Tools are very important for getting inside your typewriter and for removing parts. Here are a few tools that should be included in every repairman's case.
==Screwdrivers==

You’ll want a nice set of screwdrivers. Gunners' and long precision screwdrivers are very nice, and you’ll also want some with bigger handles for a better grip and for use with larger screws. Flat-head screwdrivers are most commonly used, you will rarely find any other kind of screw head. Holdy screwdrivers are also nice for driving hard-to-hold tiny screws. You can never have too many screwdrivers. 
Make sure you have screwdrivers that fit the head of the screw well. Any looseness can cause stripping.

==Pliers==

Another essential tool of a typewriter repairman. Pliers are great for holding things and forming parts. A set of needle nose pliers is used for repairs that involve forming (bending) metal, and having two or 3 of various lengths and sizes can not only help with accessing parts that are deep within the machine, but also make it much easier to make parts bend in a precise manner.

==Wrenches==

Many typewriters have nuts and bolts, along with screws. A good set of wrenches are essential for loosening these. The most common nut/bolt you will come across is 1/4”. An adjustable wrench is also good for those odd sizes you come across every now and again.

==Dental Picks==
Highly recommended; dental picks are peerless when it comes to removing gunk from thin areas and accessing tiny gaps. One end may be bent into a hook to assist drawband repairs. 
Check your grocery or drug store's dental care area, or look for clay tools at a craft store. It's a good idea to have plastic tips as well as metal if you can find them.

'''Spring Hooks''' are similar to dental picks, but are specifically designed for attaching extension springs. Useful, but not essential. Most dental picks will do the same job.

==Brushes==

* '''Toothbrush''' - hard stiffness recommended.
* '''Brass Brush''' - use only on unpainted metal, like typeslugs. Do not use on brass or very soft metals or anything painted.
* '''Straw cleaning brush''' and/or '''pipe cleaners''' - to get into small areas.
* '''Car detailing''' or '''soft paintbrushes''' - let you work cleaners into crevasses without being abrasive.

=Chemicals=
You want to use as little chemicals and oils as possible, but the most commonly used are below.

==Putty==
You can buy typeslug cleaning putty that can be used multiple times. Use it each time after you use your typewriter to keep the characters looking sharp. This putty will not remove old, caked on ink and dirt. Make sure you brush everything, first.

==Solvents, Scrubs, and Degreasers==
Solvents are commonly used to loosen caked on dirt, dust, and other gunk. Here are some common solvents and degreasers. Be careful with these as they are not good for paint or rubber and will also dissolve those. Do NOT EVER use these on decals.

* '''Isopropyl Alcohol''' - Alcohol is one of the less aggressive chemical solvents. It does not smell too harshly, and evaporates quickly. Isopropyl Alcohol is more accessible and less volatile.
* '''Mineral Spirits''' - Mineral Spirits are more volatile and aggressive than Isopropyl Alcohol. Be very careful with this, as the fumes are not good for your brain.
* '''Degreasers''' - There are various degreasers you can use. The most recommended are Mean Green, Simple Green, Purple Power, and Zep Orange. Once you have cleaned with these, you will need to flush the area with something like Isopropyl alcohol. Water can be used, as well, but make sure you get everything very dry.
* '''Dish Soap''' - A mild degreaser and surfactant, hand dish detergent is sometimes the best option. Try to avoid things with petroleum like Dawn. Use diluted in water with a damp cloth or toothbrush.
* '''Soft Scrub/Cif Cream/Viss Cleanser''' - Do not get the type with bleach in it! This can be used safely with a toothbrush on crinkle paint, the rough stuff from the late 40s through early 60s. Please test in an area that's not easily seen, first. Any problems with peeling paint will be made worse by scrubbing. This stuff is great for cleaning platens and making them a bit more grippy, too. Make sure you wipe it down well with a damp cloth a few times to get all residue off. Never use it on gloss paint!

==Penetrants==

These should not be used as oil, even if the package says you can.
These include:
* '''WD40''' - ubiquitous therefor easy to find, can be used to clean some components
* '''PB Blast''' - strong smelling, use with ventilation, not recommended for cleaning
* '''3n1 Oil''' - easy to find in a drip bottle with narrow tip, less smell than the above options
* and more.

You will want something to free stuck screws. Drip some onto the screw head and let it penetrate into the threads. Don't spray it on your typewriter, as you'll have to clean it all off. Be patient and wait before trying to remove screws you haven't had out recently. It can be difficult to find proper replacements if you strip them.

==Oil==

The proper oil for typewriters is light machine oil. It's also used for sewing machines and guns, so you can use either of those.
Light machine oils include Rem-Oil, Hoppes 9, and even trumpet valve oil.

Despite popular belief in some places on the internet, oil is good for typewriters, in certain places. Manufacturers of typewriters like the Smith-Premier and Oliver came with oiling instructions and tools for a reason.

The belief that oil is bad for typewriters comes from this: DO NOT OVER-OIL, AND NEVER OIL DIRTY PARTS. Keep oil to places like carriage rails, carriage wheels, and the escapement. Sometimes the ribbon system, backspace, and tabulator mechanisms need oiling too. It is generally not recommended to oil the segment, because it is hard to clean thoroughly, but if it is ascertained that the segment is perfectly clean, light oil will improve the typewriter's running.

==Rust Removers==
=== Chemicals ===
* '''Do not put any of these on anything but bare metal.'''
* '''Evaporust''' - Nontoxic, water based, biodegradable, liquid. Apply with cotton swab.
* '''Naval Jelly''' - A bit toxic, use in a ventilated place, gel so it sticks on better. Apply with cotton swab or small paintbrush.
* '''CLR''' - good for soaking very rusty parts that are unpainted metal and can be removed from the machine.

=== Physical ===
* '''Fine Wet-Sand''' - sandpaper or sponge meant to be used with water. This will keep dust down and quickly strips rust off things like rails.
* '''Emery Cloth''' - This is basically a very fine sandpaper. It's good for polishing. If you use wet sand, this should be your second step.
* '''Melamine Eraser''' - Works on surface rust, but takes a lot of elbow grease.
* '''Steel Wool''' - will leave shavings, so don't use on parts inside the machine without running a vacuum. Emery cloth is a better alternative.
* '''Fiberglass Pot Scrubber''' - can leave small fiberglass splinters, quite abrasive, only use on very tough rusted spots.

==Waxes and Polishes==
* '''Carnauba Wax''' - Use pure carnauba wax to polish gloss painted areas. Rub on sparingly, allow to haze, buff off with clean soft cloth.
* '''Cleaning Wax''' - Look for a carnauba based cleaning wax like Mother's and use elbow grease with something like a microfiber or terrycloth rag.
* '''Beeswax''' - Not for the lazy. Warm a small piece in your hand until it's pliable. "Write" on the paint, then buff in immediately with fast, strong strokes using cloth like an old t-shirt. Once none of the writing is visible, polish with soft cloth. If the surface feels slightly sticky, you didn't buff enough. It's a lot of work, but the advantage is a very smooth shine that's quite durable and warm rather than extra glossy.
* '''Polishing Compound''' - Do not use this on paint. You can use it in places where you had to remove rust from bare metal to help smooth them out again.
* '''Rubbing Compound''' - comes in various grits. You want very fine, like Mother's Rubbing compound, if you need to remove tar and nicotine from paint. Coarse grits will be more abrasive, but can be useful on rust or foreign paint.
* '''Rotary Tool Buffers''' - Some people like these and some do not. Be very gentle, and only use them on bare metal.

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2021-09-21T21:24:28Z

Ryanne: /* Chemicals */

Though typewriter repair may appear to be a dark art, requiring complicated and specialised tooling, most --if not all-- typewriter issues can be fixed with simple household materials and materials from the local hardware or surplus store. This is a list of common tools that you may encounter.

__TOC__

=Tools=

Tools are very important for getting inside your typewriter and for removing parts. Here are a few tools that should be included in every repairman's case.
==Screwdrivers==

You’ll want a nice set of screwdrivers. Gunners' and long precision screwdrivers are very nice, and you’ll also want some with bigger handles for a better grip and for use with larger screws. Flat-head screwdrivers are most commonly used, you will rarely find any other kind of screw head. Holdy screwdrivers are also nice for driving hard-to-hold tiny screws. You can never have too many screwdrivers. 
Make sure you have screwdrivers that fit the head of the screw well. Any looseness can cause stripping.

==Pliers==

Another essential tool of a typewriter repairman. Pliers are great for holding things and forming parts. A set of needle nose pliers is used for repairs that involve forming (bending) metal, and having two or 3 of various lengths and sizes can not only help with accessing parts that are deep within the machine, but also make it much easier to make parts bend in a precise manner.

==Wrenches==

Many typewriters have nuts and bolts, along with screws. A good set of wrenches are essential for loosening these. The most common nut/bolt you will come across is 1/4”. An adjustable wrench is also good for those odd sizes you come across every now and again.

==Dental Picks==
Highly recommended; dental picks are peerless when it comes to removing gunk from thin areas and accessing tiny gaps. One end may be bent into a hook to assist drawband repairs. 
Check your grocery or drug store's dental care area, or look for clay tools at a craft store. It's a good idea to have plastic tips as well as metal if you can find them.

'''Spring Hooks''' are similar to dental picks, but are specifically designed for attaching extension springs. Useful, but not essential. Most dental picks will do the same job.

==Brushes==

* '''Toothbrush''' - hard stiffness recommended.
* '''Brass Brush''' - use only on unpainted metal, like typeslugs. Do not use on brass or very soft metals or anything painted.
* '''Straw cleaning brush''' and/or '''pipe cleaners''' - to get into small areas.
* '''Car detailing''' or '''soft paintbrushes''' - let you work cleaners into crevasses without being abrasive.

=Chemicals=
You want to use as little chemicals and oils as possible, but the most commonly used are below.

==Putty==
You can buy typeslug cleaning putty that can be used multiple times. Use it each time after you use your typewriter to keep the characters looking sharp. This putty will not remove old, caked on ink and dirt. Make sure you brush everything, first.

==Solvents, Scrubs, and Degreasers==
Solvents are commonly used to loosen caked on dirt, dust, and other gunk. Here are some common solvents and degreasers. Be careful with these as they are not good for paint or rubber and will also dissolve those. Do NOT EVER use these on decals.

* '''Isopropyl Alcohol''' - Alcohol is one of the less aggressive chemical solvents. It does not smell too harshly, and evaporates quickly. Isopropyl Alcohol is more accessible and less volatile.
* '''Mineral Spirits''' - Mineral Spirits are more volatile and aggressive than Isopropyl Alcohol. Be very careful with this, as the fumes are not good for your brain.
* '''Degreasers''' - There are various degreasers you can use. The most recommended are Mean Green, Simple Green, Purple Power, and Zep Orange. Once you have cleaned with these, you will need to flush the area with something like Isopropyl alcohol. Water can be used, as well, but make sure you get everything very dry.
* '''Dish Soap''' - A mild degreaser and surfactant, hand dish detergent is sometimes the best option. Try to avoid things with petroleum like Dawn. Use diluted in water with a damp cloth or toothbrush.
* '''Soft Scrub/Cif Cream/Viss Cleanser''' - Do not get the type with bleach in it! This can be used safely with a toothbrush on crinkle paint, the rough stuff from the late 40s through early 60s. Please test in an area that's not easily seen, first. Any problems with peeling paint will be made worse by scrubbing. This stuff is great for cleaning platens and making them a bit more grippy, too. Make sure you wipe it down well with a damp cloth a few times to get all residue off. Never use it on gloss paint!

==Penetrants==

These should not be used as oil, even if the package says you can. These include WD40, PB Blast, 3n1 Oil and the like. You will want something to free stuck screws. Drip some onto the screw head and let it penetrate into the threads. Don't spray it on your typewriter, as you'll have to clean it all off. Be patient and wait before trying to remove screws you haven't had out recently. It can be difficult to find proper replacements if you strip them.

==Oil==

The proper oil for typewriters is light machine oil. It's also used for sewing machines and guns, so you can use either of those.
Light machine oils include Rem-Oil, Hoppes 9, and even trumpet valve oil.

Despite popular belief in some places on the internet, oil is good for typewriters, in certain places. Manufacturers of typewriters like the Smith-Premier and Oliver came with oiling instructions and tools for a reason.

The belief that oil is bad for typewriters comes from this: DO NOT OVER-OIL, AND NEVER OIL DIRTY PARTS. Keep oil to places like carriage rails, carriage wheels, and the escapement. Sometimes the ribbon system, backspace, and tabulator mechanisms need oiling too. It is generally not recommended to oil the segment, because it is hard to clean thoroughly, but if it is ascertained that the segment is perfectly clean, light oil will improve the typewriter's running.

==Rust Removers==
=== Chemicals ===
* '''Do not put any of these on anything but bare metal.'''
* '''Evaporust''' - Nontoxic, water based, biodegradable, liquid. Apply with cotton swab.
* '''Naval Jelly''' - A bit toxic, use in a ventilated place, gel so it sticks on better. Apply with cotton swab or small paintbrush.
* '''CLR''' - good for soaking very rusty parts that are unpainted metal and can be removed from the machine.

=== Physical ===
* '''Fine Wet-Sand''' - sandpaper or sponge meant to be used with water. This will keep dust down and quickly strips rust off things like rails.
* '''Emery Cloth''' - This is basically a very fine sandpaper. It's good for polishing. If you use wet sand, this should be your second step.
* '''Melamine Eraser''' - Works on surface rust, but takes a lot of elbow grease.
* '''Steel Wool''' - will leave shavings, so don't use on parts inside the machine without running a vacuum. Emery cloth is a better alternative.
* '''Fiberglass Pot Scrubber''' - can leave small fiberglass splinters, quite abrasive, only use on very tough rusted spots.

==Waxes and Polishes==
* '''Carnauba Wax''' - Use pure carnauba wax to polish gloss painted areas. Rub on sparingly, allow to haze, buff off with clean soft cloth.
* '''Cleaning Wax''' - Look for a carnauba based cleaning wax like Mother's and use elbow grease with something like a microfiber or terrycloth rag.
* '''Beeswax''' - Not for the lazy. Warm a small piece in your hand until it's pliable. "Write" on the paint, then buff in immediately with fast, strong strokes using cloth like an old t-shirt. Once none of the writing is visible, polish with soft cloth. If the surface feels slightly sticky, you didn't buff enough. It's a lot of work, but the advantage is a very smooth shine that's quite durable and warm rather than extra glossy.
* '''Polishing Compound''' - Do not use this on paint. You can use it in places where you had to remove rust from bare metal to help smooth them out again.
* '''Rubbing Compound''' - comes in various grits. You want very fine, like Mother's Rubbing compound, if you need to remove tar and nicotine from paint. Coarse grits will be more abrasive, but can be useful on rust or foreign paint.
* '''Rotary Tool Buffers''' - Some people like these and some do not. Be very gentle, and only use them on bare metal.

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2021-09-21T21:24:13Z

Ryanne: /* Waxes and Polishes */

Though typewriter repair may appear to be a dark art, requiring complicated and specialised tooling, most --if not all-- typewriter issues can be fixed with simple household materials and materials from the local hardware or surplus store. This is a list of common tools that you may encounter.

__TOC__

=Tools=

Tools are very important for getting inside your typewriter and for removing parts. Here are a few tools that should be included in every repairman's case.
==Screwdrivers==

You’ll want a nice set of screwdrivers. Gunners' and long precision screwdrivers are very nice, and you’ll also want some with bigger handles for a better grip and for use with larger screws. Flat-head screwdrivers are most commonly used, you will rarely find any other kind of screw head. Holdy screwdrivers are also nice for driving hard-to-hold tiny screws. You can never have too many screwdrivers. 
Make sure you have screwdrivers that fit the head of the screw well. Any looseness can cause stripping.

==Pliers==

Another essential tool of a typewriter repairman. Pliers are great for holding things and forming parts. A set of needle nose pliers is used for repairs that involve forming (bending) metal, and having two or 3 of various lengths and sizes can not only help with accessing parts that are deep within the machine, but also make it much easier to make parts bend in a precise manner.

==Wrenches==

Many typewriters have nuts and bolts, along with screws. A good set of wrenches are essential for loosening these. The most common nut/bolt you will come across is 1/4”. An adjustable wrench is also good for those odd sizes you come across every now and again.

==Dental Picks==
Highly recommended; dental picks are peerless when it comes to removing gunk from thin areas and accessing tiny gaps. One end may be bent into a hook to assist drawband repairs. 
Check your grocery or drug store's dental care area, or look for clay tools at a craft store. It's a good idea to have plastic tips as well as metal if you can find them.

'''Spring Hooks''' are similar to dental picks, but are specifically designed for attaching extension springs. Useful, but not essential. Most dental picks will do the same job.

==Brushes==

* '''Toothbrush''' - hard stiffness recommended.
* '''Brass Brush''' - use only on unpainted metal, like typeslugs. Do not use on brass or very soft metals or anything painted.
* '''Straw cleaning brush''' and/or '''pipe cleaners''' - to get into small areas.
* '''Car detailing''' or '''soft paintbrushes''' - let you work cleaners into crevasses without being abrasive.

=Chemicals=
You want to use as little chemicals and oils as possible, but the most commonly used are below.

==Putty==
You can buy typeslug cleaning putty that can be used multiple times. Use it each time after you use your typewriter to keep the characters looking sharp. This putty will not remove old, caked on ink and dirt. Make sure you brush everything, first.

==Solvents, Scrubs, and Degreasers==
Solvents are commonly used to loosen caked on dirt, dust, and other gunk. Here are some common solvents and degreasers. Be careful with these as they are not good for paint or rubber and will also dissolve those. Do NOT EVER use these on decals.

* '''Isopropyl Alcohol''' - Alcohol is one of the less aggressive chemical solvents. It does not smell too harshly, and evaporates quickly. Isopropyl Alcohol is more accessible and less volatile.
* '''Mineral Spirits''' - Mineral Spirits are more volatile and aggressive than Isopropyl Alcohol. Be very careful with this, as the fumes are not good for your brain.
* '''Degreasers''' - There are various degreasers you can use. The most recommended are Mean Green, Simple Green, Purple Power, and Zep Orange. Once you have cleaned with these, you will need to flush the area with something like Isopropyl alcohol. Water can be used, as well, but make sure you get everything very dry.
* '''Dish Soap''' - A mild degreaser and surfactant, hand dish detergent is sometimes the best option. Try to avoid things with petroleum like Dawn. Use diluted in water with a damp cloth or toothbrush.
* '''Soft Scrub/Cif Cream/Viss Cleanser''' - Do not get the type with bleach in it! This can be used safely with a toothbrush on crinkle paint, the rough stuff from the late 40s through early 60s. Please test in an area that's not easily seen, first. Any problems with peeling paint will be made worse by scrubbing. This stuff is great for cleaning platens and making them a bit more grippy, too. Make sure you wipe it down well with a damp cloth a few times to get all residue off. Never use it on gloss paint!

==Penetrants==

These should not be used as oil, even if the package says you can. These include WD40, PB Blast, 3n1 Oil and the like. You will want something to free stuck screws. Drip some onto the screw head and let it penetrate into the threads. Don't spray it on your typewriter, as you'll have to clean it all off. Be patient and wait before trying to remove screws you haven't had out recently. It can be difficult to find proper replacements if you strip them.

==Oil==

The proper oil for typewriters is light machine oil. It's also used for sewing machines and guns, so you can use either of those.
Light machine oils include Rem-Oil, Hoppes 9, and even trumpet valve oil.

Despite popular belief in some places on the internet, oil is good for typewriters, in certain places. Manufacturers of typewriters like the Smith-Premier and Oliver came with oiling instructions and tools for a reason.

The belief that oil is bad for typewriters comes from this: DO NOT OVER-OIL, AND NEVER OIL DIRTY PARTS. Keep oil to places like carriage rails, carriage wheels, and the escapement. Sometimes the ribbon system, backspace, and tabulator mechanisms need oiling too. It is generally not recommended to oil the segment, because it is hard to clean thoroughly, but if it is ascertained that the segment is perfectly clean, light oil will improve the typewriter's running.

==Rust Removers==
=== Chemicals ===
* '''Do not put any of these on anything but bare metal.'''
* '''Evaporust''' - Nontoxic, water based, biodegradable, liquid. Apply with cotton swab.
* '''Naval Jelly''' - A bit toxic, use in a ventilated place, gel so it sticks on better. Apply with cotton swab or small paintbrush.
* '''CLR""" - good for soaking very rusty parts that are unpainted metal and can be removed from the machine.

=== Physical ===
* '''Fine Wet-Sand''' - sandpaper or sponge meant to be used with water. This will keep dust down and quickly strips rust off things like rails.
* '''Emery Cloth''' - This is basically a very fine sandpaper. It's good for polishing. If you use wet sand, this should be your second step.
* '''Melamine Eraser''' - Works on surface rust, but takes a lot of elbow grease.
* '''Steel Wool''' - will leave shavings, so don't use on parts inside the machine without running a vacuum. Emery cloth is a better alternative.
* '''Fiberglass Pot Scrubber''' - can leave small fiberglass splinters, quite abrasive, only use on very tough rusted spots.

==Waxes and Polishes==
* '''Carnauba Wax''' - Use pure carnauba wax to polish gloss painted areas. Rub on sparingly, allow to haze, buff off with clean soft cloth.
* '''Cleaning Wax''' - Look for a carnauba based cleaning wax like Mother's and use elbow grease with something like a microfiber or terrycloth rag.
* '''Beeswax''' - Not for the lazy. Warm a small piece in your hand until it's pliable. "Write" on the paint, then buff in immediately with fast, strong strokes using cloth like an old t-shirt. Once none of the writing is visible, polish with soft cloth. If the surface feels slightly sticky, you didn't buff enough. It's a lot of work, but the advantage is a very smooth shine that's quite durable and warm rather than extra glossy.
* '''Polishing Compound''' - Do not use this on paint. You can use it in places where you had to remove rust from bare metal to help smooth them out again.
* '''Rubbing Compound''' - comes in various grits. You want very fine, like Mother's Rubbing compound, if you need to remove tar and nicotine from paint. Coarse grits will be more abrasive, but can be useful on rust or foreign paint.
* '''Rotary Tool Buffers''' - Some people like these and some do not. Be very gentle, and only use them on bare metal.

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2021-09-21T21:21:44Z

Ryanne: /* Physical */

Though typewriter repair may appear to be a dark art, requiring complicated and specialised tooling, most --if not all-- typewriter issues can be fixed with simple household materials and materials from the local hardware or surplus store. This is a list of common tools that you may encounter.

__TOC__

=Tools=

Tools are very important for getting inside your typewriter and for removing parts. Here are a few tools that should be included in every repairman's case.
==Screwdrivers==

You’ll want a nice set of screwdrivers. Gunners' and long precision screwdrivers are very nice, and you’ll also want some with bigger handles for a better grip and for use with larger screws. Flat-head screwdrivers are most commonly used, you will rarely find any other kind of screw head. Holdy screwdrivers are also nice for driving hard-to-hold tiny screws. You can never have too many screwdrivers. 
Make sure you have screwdrivers that fit the head of the screw well. Any looseness can cause stripping.

==Pliers==

Another essential tool of a typewriter repairman. Pliers are great for holding things and forming parts. A set of needle nose pliers is used for repairs that involve forming (bending) metal, and having two or 3 of various lengths and sizes can not only help with accessing parts that are deep within the machine, but also make it much easier to make parts bend in a precise manner.

==Wrenches==

Many typewriters have nuts and bolts, along with screws. A good set of wrenches are essential for loosening these. The most common nut/bolt you will come across is 1/4”. An adjustable wrench is also good for those odd sizes you come across every now and again.

==Dental Picks==
Highly recommended; dental picks are peerless when it comes to removing gunk from thin areas and accessing tiny gaps. One end may be bent into a hook to assist drawband repairs. 
Check your grocery or drug store's dental care area, or look for clay tools at a craft store. It's a good idea to have plastic tips as well as metal if you can find them.

'''Spring Hooks''' are similar to dental picks, but are specifically designed for attaching extension springs. Useful, but not essential. Most dental picks will do the same job.

==Brushes==

* '''Toothbrush''' - hard stiffness recommended.
* '''Brass Brush''' - use only on unpainted metal, like typeslugs. Do not use on brass or very soft metals or anything painted.
* '''Straw cleaning brush''' and/or '''pipe cleaners''' - to get into small areas.
* '''Car detailing''' or '''soft paintbrushes''' - let you work cleaners into crevasses without being abrasive.

=Chemicals=
You want to use as little chemicals and oils as possible, but the most commonly used are below.

==Putty==
You can buy typeslug cleaning putty that can be used multiple times. Use it each time after you use your typewriter to keep the characters looking sharp. This putty will not remove old, caked on ink and dirt. Make sure you brush everything, first.

==Solvents, Scrubs, and Degreasers==
Solvents are commonly used to loosen caked on dirt, dust, and other gunk. Here are some common solvents and degreasers. Be careful with these as they are not good for paint or rubber and will also dissolve those. Do NOT EVER use these on decals.

* '''Isopropyl Alcohol''' - Alcohol is one of the less aggressive chemical solvents. It does not smell too harshly, and evaporates quickly. Isopropyl Alcohol is more accessible and less volatile.
* '''Mineral Spirits''' - Mineral Spirits are more volatile and aggressive than Isopropyl Alcohol. Be very careful with this, as the fumes are not good for your brain.
* '''Degreasers''' - There are various degreasers you can use. The most recommended are Mean Green, Simple Green, Purple Power, and Zep Orange. Once you have cleaned with these, you will need to flush the area with something like Isopropyl alcohol. Water can be used, as well, but make sure you get everything very dry.
* '''Dish Soap''' - A mild degreaser and surfactant, hand dish detergent is sometimes the best option. Try to avoid things with petroleum like Dawn. Use diluted in water with a damp cloth or toothbrush.
* '''Soft Scrub/Cif Cream/Viss Cleanser''' - Do not get the type with bleach in it! This can be used safely with a toothbrush on crinkle paint, the rough stuff from the late 40s through early 60s. Please test in an area that's not easily seen, first. Any problems with peeling paint will be made worse by scrubbing. This stuff is great for cleaning platens and making them a bit more grippy, too. Make sure you wipe it down well with a damp cloth a few times to get all residue off. Never use it on gloss paint!

==Penetrants==

These should not be used as oil, even if the package says you can. These include WD40, PB Blast, 3n1 Oil and the like. You will want something to free stuck screws. Drip some onto the screw head and let it penetrate into the threads. Don't spray it on your typewriter, as you'll have to clean it all off. Be patient and wait before trying to remove screws you haven't had out recently. It can be difficult to find proper replacements if you strip them.

==Oil==

The proper oil for typewriters is light machine oil. It's also used for sewing machines and guns, so you can use either of those.
Light machine oils include Rem-Oil, Hoppes 9, and even trumpet valve oil.

Despite popular belief in some places on the internet, oil is good for typewriters, in certain places. Manufacturers of typewriters like the Smith-Premier and Oliver came with oiling instructions and tools for a reason.

The belief that oil is bad for typewriters comes from this: DO NOT OVER-OIL, AND NEVER OIL DIRTY PARTS. Keep oil to places like carriage rails, carriage wheels, and the escapement. Sometimes the ribbon system, backspace, and tabulator mechanisms need oiling too. It is generally not recommended to oil the segment, because it is hard to clean thoroughly, but if it is ascertained that the segment is perfectly clean, light oil will improve the typewriter's running.

==Rust Removers==
=== Chemicals ===
* '''Do not put any of these on anything but bare metal.'''
* '''Evaporust''' - Nontoxic, water based, biodegradable, liquid. Apply with cotton swab.
* '''Naval Jelly''' - A bit toxic, use in a ventilated place, gel so it sticks on better. Apply with cotton swab or small paintbrush.
* '''CLR""" - good for soaking very rusty parts that are unpainted metal and can be removed from the machine.

=== Physical ===
* '''Fine Wet-Sand''' - sandpaper or sponge meant to be used with water. This will keep dust down and quickly strips rust off things like rails.
* '''Emery Cloth''' - This is basically a very fine sandpaper. It's good for polishing. If you use wet sand, this should be your second step.
* '''Melamine Eraser''' - Works on surface rust, but takes a lot of elbow grease.
* '''Steel Wool''' - will leave shavings, so don't use on parts inside the machine without running a vacuum. Emery cloth is a better alternative.
* '''Fiberglass Pot Scrubber''' - can leave small fiberglass splinters, quite abrasive, only use on very tough rusted spots.

==Waxes and Polishes==
* '''Carnauba Wax''' - Use pure carnauba wax to polish gloss painted areas. Rub on sparingly, allow to haze, buff off with clean soft cloth.
* '''Cleaning Wax''' - Look for a carnauba based cleaning wax like Mother's and use elbow grease with something like a microfiber or terrycloth rag.
* '''Beeswax''' - Not for the lazy. Warm a small piece in your hand until it's pliable. "Write" on the paint, then buff in immediately with fast, strong strokes using cloth like an old t-shirt. Once none of the writing is visible, polish with soft cloth. If the surface feels slightly sticky, you didn't buff enough. It's a lot of work, but the advantage is a very smooth shine that's quite durable and warm rather than extra glossy.
* '''Polishing Compound''' - Do not use this on paint. You can use it in places where you had to remove rust from bare metal to help smooth them out again.
* '''Rotary Tool Buffers''' - Some people like these and some do not. Be very gentle, and only use them on bare metal.

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2021-09-21T21:20:42Z

Ryanne: /* Solvents, Scrubs, and Degreasers */

Though typewriter repair may appear to be a dark art, requiring complicated and specialised tooling, most --if not all-- typewriter issues can be fixed with simple household materials and materials from the local hardware or surplus store. This is a list of common tools that you may encounter.

__TOC__

=Tools=

Tools are very important for getting inside your typewriter and for removing parts. Here are a few tools that should be included in every repairman's case.
==Screwdrivers==

You’ll want a nice set of screwdrivers. Gunners' and long precision screwdrivers are very nice, and you’ll also want some with bigger handles for a better grip and for use with larger screws. Flat-head screwdrivers are most commonly used, you will rarely find any other kind of screw head. Holdy screwdrivers are also nice for driving hard-to-hold tiny screws. You can never have too many screwdrivers. 
Make sure you have screwdrivers that fit the head of the screw well. Any looseness can cause stripping.

==Pliers==

Another essential tool of a typewriter repairman. Pliers are great for holding things and forming parts. A set of needle nose pliers is used for repairs that involve forming (bending) metal, and having two or 3 of various lengths and sizes can not only help with accessing parts that are deep within the machine, but also make it much easier to make parts bend in a precise manner.

==Wrenches==

Many typewriters have nuts and bolts, along with screws. A good set of wrenches are essential for loosening these. The most common nut/bolt you will come across is 1/4”. An adjustable wrench is also good for those odd sizes you come across every now and again.

==Dental Picks==
Highly recommended; dental picks are peerless when it comes to removing gunk from thin areas and accessing tiny gaps. One end may be bent into a hook to assist drawband repairs. 
Check your grocery or drug store's dental care area, or look for clay tools at a craft store. It's a good idea to have plastic tips as well as metal if you can find them.

'''Spring Hooks''' are similar to dental picks, but are specifically designed for attaching extension springs. Useful, but not essential. Most dental picks will do the same job.

==Brushes==

* '''Toothbrush''' - hard stiffness recommended.
* '''Brass Brush''' - use only on unpainted metal, like typeslugs. Do not use on brass or very soft metals or anything painted.
* '''Straw cleaning brush''' and/or '''pipe cleaners''' - to get into small areas.
* '''Car detailing''' or '''soft paintbrushes''' - let you work cleaners into crevasses without being abrasive.

=Chemicals=
You want to use as little chemicals and oils as possible, but the most commonly used are below.

==Putty==
You can buy typeslug cleaning putty that can be used multiple times. Use it each time after you use your typewriter to keep the characters looking sharp. This putty will not remove old, caked on ink and dirt. Make sure you brush everything, first.

==Solvents, Scrubs, and Degreasers==
Solvents are commonly used to loosen caked on dirt, dust, and other gunk. Here are some common solvents and degreasers. Be careful with these as they are not good for paint or rubber and will also dissolve those. Do NOT EVER use these on decals.

* '''Isopropyl Alcohol''' - Alcohol is one of the less aggressive chemical solvents. It does not smell too harshly, and evaporates quickly. Isopropyl Alcohol is more accessible and less volatile.
* '''Mineral Spirits''' - Mineral Spirits are more volatile and aggressive than Isopropyl Alcohol. Be very careful with this, as the fumes are not good for your brain.
* '''Degreasers''' - There are various degreasers you can use. The most recommended are Mean Green, Simple Green, Purple Power, and Zep Orange. Once you have cleaned with these, you will need to flush the area with something like Isopropyl alcohol. Water can be used, as well, but make sure you get everything very dry.
* '''Dish Soap''' - A mild degreaser and surfactant, hand dish detergent is sometimes the best option. Try to avoid things with petroleum like Dawn. Use diluted in water with a damp cloth or toothbrush.
* '''Soft Scrub/Cif Cream/Viss Cleanser''' - Do not get the type with bleach in it! This can be used safely with a toothbrush on crinkle paint, the rough stuff from the late 40s through early 60s. Please test in an area that's not easily seen, first. Any problems with peeling paint will be made worse by scrubbing. This stuff is great for cleaning platens and making them a bit more grippy, too. Make sure you wipe it down well with a damp cloth a few times to get all residue off. Never use it on gloss paint!

==Penetrants==

These should not be used as oil, even if the package says you can. These include WD40, PB Blast, 3n1 Oil and the like. You will want something to free stuck screws. Drip some onto the screw head and let it penetrate into the threads. Don't spray it on your typewriter, as you'll have to clean it all off. Be patient and wait before trying to remove screws you haven't had out recently. It can be difficult to find proper replacements if you strip them.

==Oil==

The proper oil for typewriters is light machine oil. It's also used for sewing machines and guns, so you can use either of those.
Light machine oils include Rem-Oil, Hoppes 9, and even trumpet valve oil.

Despite popular belief in some places on the internet, oil is good for typewriters, in certain places. Manufacturers of typewriters like the Smith-Premier and Oliver came with oiling instructions and tools for a reason.

The belief that oil is bad for typewriters comes from this: DO NOT OVER-OIL, AND NEVER OIL DIRTY PARTS. Keep oil to places like carriage rails, carriage wheels, and the escapement. Sometimes the ribbon system, backspace, and tabulator mechanisms need oiling too. It is generally not recommended to oil the segment, because it is hard to clean thoroughly, but if it is ascertained that the segment is perfectly clean, light oil will improve the typewriter's running.

==Rust Removers==
=== Chemicals ===
* '''Do not put any of these on anything but bare metal.'''
* '''Evaporust''' - Nontoxic, water based, biodegradable, liquid. Apply with cotton swab.
* '''Naval Jelly''' - A bit toxic, use in a ventilated place, gel so it sticks on better. Apply with cotton swab or small paintbrush.
* '''CLR""" - good for soaking very rusty parts that are unpainted metal and can be removed from the machine.

=== Physical ===
* '''Fine Wet-Sand''' - sandpaper or sponge meant to be used with water. This will keep dust down and quickly strips rust off things like rails.
* '''Emery Cloth''' - This is basically a very fine sandpaper. It's good for polishing. If you use wet sand, this should be your second step.
* '''Melamine Eraser''' - Works on surface rust, but takes a lot of elbow grease.
* '''Steel Wool''' - will leave shavings, so don't use on parts inside the machine without running a vacuum. Emery cloth is a better alternative.

==Waxes and Polishes==
* '''Carnauba Wax''' - Use pure carnauba wax to polish gloss painted areas. Rub on sparingly, allow to haze, buff off with clean soft cloth.
* '''Cleaning Wax''' - Look for a carnauba based cleaning wax like Mother's and use elbow grease with something like a microfiber or terrycloth rag.
* '''Beeswax''' - Not for the lazy. Warm a small piece in your hand until it's pliable. "Write" on the paint, then buff in immediately with fast, strong strokes using cloth like an old t-shirt. Once none of the writing is visible, polish with soft cloth. If the surface feels slightly sticky, you didn't buff enough. It's a lot of work, but the advantage is a very smooth shine that's quite durable and warm rather than extra glossy.
* '''Polishing Compound''' - Do not use this on paint. You can use it in places where you had to remove rust from bare metal to help smooth them out again.
* '''Rotary Tool Buffers''' - Some people like these and some do not. Be very gentle, and only use them on bare metal.

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2021-09-21T21:19:48Z

Ryanne: /* Chemicals */

Though typewriter repair may appear to be a dark art, requiring complicated and specialised tooling, most --if not all-- typewriter issues can be fixed with simple household materials and materials from the local hardware or surplus store. This is a list of common tools that you may encounter.

__TOC__

=Tools=

Tools are very important for getting inside your typewriter and for removing parts. Here are a few tools that should be included in every repairman's case.
==Screwdrivers==

You’ll want a nice set of screwdrivers. Gunners' and long precision screwdrivers are very nice, and you’ll also want some with bigger handles for a better grip and for use with larger screws. Flat-head screwdrivers are most commonly used, you will rarely find any other kind of screw head. Holdy screwdrivers are also nice for driving hard-to-hold tiny screws. You can never have too many screwdrivers. 
Make sure you have screwdrivers that fit the head of the screw well. Any looseness can cause stripping.

==Pliers==

Another essential tool of a typewriter repairman. Pliers are great for holding things and forming parts. A set of needle nose pliers is used for repairs that involve forming (bending) metal, and having two or 3 of various lengths and sizes can not only help with accessing parts that are deep within the machine, but also make it much easier to make parts bend in a precise manner.

==Wrenches==

Many typewriters have nuts and bolts, along with screws. A good set of wrenches are essential for loosening these. The most common nut/bolt you will come across is 1/4”. An adjustable wrench is also good for those odd sizes you come across every now and again.

==Dental Picks==
Highly recommended; dental picks are peerless when it comes to removing gunk from thin areas and accessing tiny gaps. One end may be bent into a hook to assist drawband repairs. 
Check your grocery or drug store's dental care area, or look for clay tools at a craft store. It's a good idea to have plastic tips as well as metal if you can find them.

'''Spring Hooks''' are similar to dental picks, but are specifically designed for attaching extension springs. Useful, but not essential. Most dental picks will do the same job.

==Brushes==

* '''Toothbrush''' - hard stiffness recommended.
* '''Brass Brush''' - use only on unpainted metal, like typeslugs. Do not use on brass or very soft metals or anything painted.
* '''Straw cleaning brush''' and/or '''pipe cleaners''' - to get into small areas.
* '''Car detailing''' or '''soft paintbrushes''' - let you work cleaners into crevasses without being abrasive.

=Chemicals=
You want to use as little chemicals and oils as possible, but the most commonly used are below.

==Putty==
You can buy typeslug cleaning putty that can be used multiple times. Use it each time after you use your typewriter to keep the characters looking sharp. This putty will not remove old, caked on ink and dirt. Make sure you brush everything, first.

==Solvents, Scrubs, and Degreasers==
Solvents are commonly used to loosen caked on dirt, dust, and other gunk. Here are some common solvents and degreasers. Be careful with these as they are not good for paint or rubber and will also dissolve those. Do NOT EVER use these on decals.

* '''Isopropyl Alcohol''' - Alcohol is one of the less aggressive chemical solvents. It does not smell too harshly, and evaporates quickly. Isopropyl Alcohol is more accessible and less volatile.
* '''Mineral Spirits''' - Mineral Spirits are more volatile and aggressive than Isopropyl Alcohol. Be very careful with this, as the fumes are not good for your brain.
* '''Degreasers''' - There are various degreasers you can use. The most recommended are Mean Green, Purple Power, and Zep Orange. Once you have cleaned with these, you will need to flush the area with something like Isopropyl alcohol. Water can be used, as well, but make sure you get everything very dry.
* '''Dish Soap''' - A mild degreaser and surfactant, hand dish detergent is sometimes the best option. Try to avoid things with petroleum like Dawn. Use diluted in water with a damp cloth or toothbrush.
* '''Soft Scrub/Cif Cream/Viss Cleanser''' - Do not get the type with bleach in it! This can be used safely with a toothbrush on crinkle paint, the rough stuff from the late 40s through early 60s. Please test in an area that's not easily seen, first. Any problems with peeling paint will be made worse by scrubbing. This stuff is great for cleaning platens and making them a bit more grippy, too. Make sure you wipe it down well with a damp cloth a few times to get all residue off. Never use it on gloss paint!

==Penetrants==

These should not be used as oil, even if the package says you can. These include WD40, PB Blast, 3n1 Oil and the like. You will want something to free stuck screws. Drip some onto the screw head and let it penetrate into the threads. Don't spray it on your typewriter, as you'll have to clean it all off. Be patient and wait before trying to remove screws you haven't had out recently. It can be difficult to find proper replacements if you strip them.

==Oil==

The proper oil for typewriters is light machine oil. It's also used for sewing machines and guns, so you can use either of those.
Light machine oils include Rem-Oil, Hoppes 9, and even trumpet valve oil.

Despite popular belief in some places on the internet, oil is good for typewriters, in certain places. Manufacturers of typewriters like the Smith-Premier and Oliver came with oiling instructions and tools for a reason.

The belief that oil is bad for typewriters comes from this: DO NOT OVER-OIL, AND NEVER OIL DIRTY PARTS. Keep oil to places like carriage rails, carriage wheels, and the escapement. Sometimes the ribbon system, backspace, and tabulator mechanisms need oiling too. It is generally not recommended to oil the segment, because it is hard to clean thoroughly, but if it is ascertained that the segment is perfectly clean, light oil will improve the typewriter's running.

==Rust Removers==
=== Chemicals ===
* '''Do not put any of these on anything but bare metal.'''
* '''Evaporust''' - Nontoxic, water based, biodegradable, liquid. Apply with cotton swab.
* '''Naval Jelly''' - A bit toxic, use in a ventilated place, gel so it sticks on better. Apply with cotton swab or small paintbrush.
* '''CLR""" - good for soaking very rusty parts that are unpainted metal and can be removed from the machine.

=== Physical ===
* '''Fine Wet-Sand''' - sandpaper or sponge meant to be used with water. This will keep dust down and quickly strips rust off things like rails.
* '''Emery Cloth''' - This is basically a very fine sandpaper. It's good for polishing. If you use wet sand, this should be your second step.
* '''Melamine Eraser''' - Works on surface rust, but takes a lot of elbow grease.
* '''Steel Wool''' - will leave shavings, so don't use on parts inside the machine without running a vacuum. Emery cloth is a better alternative.

==Waxes and Polishes==
* '''Carnauba Wax''' - Use pure carnauba wax to polish gloss painted areas. Rub on sparingly, allow to haze, buff off with clean soft cloth.
* '''Cleaning Wax''' - Look for a carnauba based cleaning wax like Mother's and use elbow grease with something like a microfiber or terrycloth rag.
* '''Beeswax''' - Not for the lazy. Warm a small piece in your hand until it's pliable. "Write" on the paint, then buff in immediately with fast, strong strokes using cloth like an old t-shirt. Once none of the writing is visible, polish with soft cloth. If the surface feels slightly sticky, you didn't buff enough. It's a lot of work, but the advantage is a very smooth shine that's quite durable and warm rather than extra glossy.
* '''Polishing Compound''' - Do not use this on paint. You can use it in places where you had to remove rust from bare metal to help smooth them out again.
* '''Rotary Tool Buffers''' - Some people like these and some do not. Be very gentle, and only use them on bare metal.

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2021-09-21T21:18:21Z

Ryanne: /* Brushes */

Though typewriter repair may appear to be a dark art, requiring complicated and specialised tooling, most --if not all-- typewriter issues can be fixed with simple household materials and materials from the local hardware or surplus store. This is a list of common tools that you may encounter.

__TOC__

=Tools=

Tools are very important for getting inside your typewriter and for removing parts. Here are a few tools that should be included in every repairman's case.
==Screwdrivers==

You’ll want a nice set of screwdrivers. Gunners' and long precision screwdrivers are very nice, and you’ll also want some with bigger handles for a better grip and for use with larger screws. Flat-head screwdrivers are most commonly used, you will rarely find any other kind of screw head. Holdy screwdrivers are also nice for driving hard-to-hold tiny screws. You can never have too many screwdrivers. 
Make sure you have screwdrivers that fit the head of the screw well. Any looseness can cause stripping.

==Pliers==

Another essential tool of a typewriter repairman. Pliers are great for holding things and forming parts. A set of needle nose pliers is used for repairs that involve forming (bending) metal, and having two or 3 of various lengths and sizes can not only help with accessing parts that are deep within the machine, but also make it much easier to make parts bend in a precise manner.

==Wrenches==

Many typewriters have nuts and bolts, along with screws. A good set of wrenches are essential for loosening these. The most common nut/bolt you will come across is 1/4”. An adjustable wrench is also good for those odd sizes you come across every now and again.

==Dental Picks==
Highly recommended; dental picks are peerless when it comes to removing gunk from thin areas and accessing tiny gaps. One end may be bent into a hook to assist drawband repairs. 
Check your grocery or drug store's dental care area, or look for clay tools at a craft store. It's a good idea to have plastic tips as well as metal if you can find them.

'''Spring Hooks''' are similar to dental picks, but are specifically designed for attaching extension springs. Useful, but not essential. Most dental picks will do the same job.

==Brushes==

* '''Toothbrush''' - hard stiffness recommended.
* '''Brass Brush''' - use only on unpainted metal, like typeslugs. Do not use on brass or very soft metals or anything painted.
* '''Straw cleaning brush''' and/or '''pipe cleaners''' - to get into small areas.
* '''Car detailing''' or '''soft paintbrushes''' - let you work cleaners into crevasses without being abrasive.

=Chemicals=
You want to use as little chemicals and oils as possible, but the most commonly used are below.

==Putty==
You can buy typeslug cleaning putty that can be used multiple times. Use it each time after you use your typewriter to keep the characters looking sharp. This putty will not remove old, caked on ink and dirt. Make sure you brush everything, first.

==Solvents, Scrubs, and Degreasers==
Solvents are commonly used to loosen caked on dirt, dust, and other gunk. Here are some common solvents and degreasers. Be careful with these as they are not good for paint or rubber and will also dissolve those. Do NOT EVER use these on decals.

* '''Isopropyl Alcohol''' - Alcohol is one of the less aggressive chemical solvents. It does not smell too harshly, and evaporates quickly. Isopropyl Alcohol is more accessible and less volatile.
* '''Mineral Spirits''' - Mineral Spirits are more volatile and aggressive than Isopropyl Alcohol. Be very careful with this, as the fumes are not good for your brain.
* '''Degreasers''' - There are various degreasers you can use. The most recommended are Mean Green, Purple Power, and Zep Orange. Once you have cleaned with these, you will need to flush the area with something like Isopropyl alcohol. Water can be used, as well, but make sure you get everything very dry.
* '''Dish Soap''' - A mild degreaser and surfactant, hand dish detergent is sometimes the best option. Try to avoid things with petroleum like Dawn. Use diluted in water with a damp cloth or toothbrush.
* '''Soft Scrub/Cif Cream/Viss Cleanser''' - Do not get the type with bleach in it! This can be used safely with a toothbrush on crinkle paint, the rough stuff from the late 40s through early 60s. Please test in an area that's not easily seen, first. Any problems with peeling paint will be made worse by scrubbing. This stuff is great for cleaning platens and making them a bit more grippy, too. Make sure you wipe it down well with a damp cloth a few times to get all residue off. Never use it on gloss paint!

==Penetrants==

These should not be used as oil, even if the package says you can. These include WD40, PB Blast, 3n1 Oil and the like. You will want something to free stuck screws. Drip some onto the screw head and let it penetrate into the threads. Don't spray it on your typewriter, as you'll have to clean it all off. Be patient and wait before trying to remove screws you haven't had out recently. It can be difficult to find proper replacements if you strip them.

==Oil==

The proper oil for typewriters is light machine oil. It's also used for sewing machines and guns, so you can use either of those.
Light machine oils include Rem-Oil, Hoppes 9, and even trumpet valve oil.

Despite popular belief in some places on the internet, oil is good for typewriters, in certain places. Manufacturers of typewriters like the Smith-Premier and Oliver came with oiling instructions and tools for a reason.

The belief that oil is bad for typewriters comes from this: DO NOT OVER-OIL, AND NEVER OIL DIRTY PARTS. Keep oil to places like carriage rails, carriage wheels, and the escapement. Sometimes the ribbon system, backspace, and tabulator mechanisms need oiling too. It is generally not recommended to oil the segment, because it is hard to clean thoroughly, but if it is ascertained that the segment is perfectly clean, light oil will improve the typewriter's running.

==Rust Removers==
=== Chemicals ===
* '''Do not put any of these on anything but bare metal.'''
* '''Evaporust''' - Nontoxic, water based, biodegradable, liquid. Apply with cotton swab.
* '''Naval Jelly''' - A bit toxic, use in a ventilated place, gel so it sticks on better. Apply with cotton swab or small paintbrush.
=== Physical ===
* '''Fine Wet-Sand''' - sandpaper or sponge meant to be used with water. This will keep dust down and quickly strips rust off things like rails.
* '''Emery Cloth''' - This is basically a very fine sandpaper. It's good for polishing. If you use wet sand, this should be your second step.
* '''Melamine Eraser''' - Works on surface rust, but takes a lot of elbow grease.
* '''Steel Wool''' - will leave shavings, so don't use on parts inside the machine without running a vacuum. Emery cloth is a better alternative.

==Waxes and Polishes==
* '''Carnauba Wax''' - Use pure carnauba wax to polish gloss painted areas. Rub on sparingly, allow to haze, buff off with clean soft cloth.
* '''Cleaning Wax''' - Look for a carnauba based cleaning wax like Mother's and use elbow grease with something like a microfiber or terrycloth rag.
* '''Beeswax''' - Not for the lazy. Warm a small piece in your hand until it's pliable. "Write" on the paint, then buff in immediately with fast, strong strokes using cloth like an old t-shirt. Once none of the writing is visible, polish with soft cloth. If the surface feels slightly sticky, you didn't buff enough. It's a lot of work, but the advantage is a very smooth shine that's quite durable and warm rather than extra glossy.
* '''Polishing Compound''' - Do not use this on paint. You can use it in places where you had to remove rust from bare metal to help smooth them out again.
* '''Rotary Tool Buffers''' - Some people like these and some do not. Be very gentle, and only use them on bare metal.

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2021-09-21T21:17:36Z

Ryanne: /* Waxes and Polishes */

Though typewriter repair may appear to be a dark art, requiring complicated and specialised tooling, most --if not all-- typewriter issues can be fixed with simple household materials and materials from the local hardware or surplus store. This is a list of common tools that you may encounter.

__TOC__

=Tools=

Tools are very important for getting inside your typewriter and for removing parts. Here are a few tools that should be included in every repairman's case.
==Screwdrivers==

You’ll want a nice set of screwdrivers. Gunners' and long precision screwdrivers are very nice, and you’ll also want some with bigger handles for a better grip and for use with larger screws. Flat-head screwdrivers are most commonly used, you will rarely find any other kind of screw head. Holdy screwdrivers are also nice for driving hard-to-hold tiny screws. You can never have too many screwdrivers. 
Make sure you have screwdrivers that fit the head of the screw well. Any looseness can cause stripping.

==Pliers==

Another essential tool of a typewriter repairman. Pliers are great for holding things and forming parts. A set of needle nose pliers is used for repairs that involve forming (bending) metal, and having two or 3 of various lengths and sizes can not only help with accessing parts that are deep within the machine, but also make it much easier to make parts bend in a precise manner.

==Wrenches==

Many typewriters have nuts and bolts, along with screws. A good set of wrenches are essential for loosening these. The most common nut/bolt you will come across is 1/4”. An adjustable wrench is also good for those odd sizes you come across every now and again.

==Dental Picks==
Highly recommended; dental picks are peerless when it comes to removing gunk from thin areas and accessing tiny gaps. One end may be bent into a hook to assist drawband repairs. 
Check your grocery or drug store's dental care area, or look for clay tools at a craft store. It's a good idea to have plastic tips as well as metal if you can find them.

'''Spring Hooks''' are similar to dental picks, but are specifically designed for attaching extension springs. Useful, but not essential. Most dental picks will do the same job.

==Brushes==

* Toothbrush - hard stiffness recommended.
* Brass Brush - use only on unpainted metal, like typeslugs. Do not use on brass or very soft metals or anything painted.
* Straw cleaning brush and/or pipe cleaners - to get into small areas.
* Care detailing or soft paintbrushes - let you work cleaners into crevasses without being abrasive.

=Chemicals=
You want to use as little chemicals and oils as possible, but the most commonly used are below.

==Putty==
You can buy typeslug cleaning putty that can be used multiple times. Use it each time after you use your typewriter to keep the characters looking sharp. This putty will not remove old, caked on ink and dirt. Make sure you brush everything, first.

==Solvents, Scrubs, and Degreasers==
Solvents are commonly used to loosen caked on dirt, dust, and other gunk. Here are some common solvents and degreasers. Be careful with these as they are not good for paint or rubber and will also dissolve those. Do NOT EVER use these on decals.

* '''Isopropyl Alcohol''' - Alcohol is one of the less aggressive chemical solvents. It does not smell too harshly, and evaporates quickly. Isopropyl Alcohol is more accessible and less volatile.
* '''Mineral Spirits''' - Mineral Spirits are more volatile and aggressive than Isopropyl Alcohol. Be very careful with this, as the fumes are not good for your brain.
* '''Degreasers''' - There are various degreasers you can use. The most recommended are Mean Green, Purple Power, and Zep Orange. Once you have cleaned with these, you will need to flush the area with something like Isopropyl alcohol. Water can be used, as well, but make sure you get everything very dry.
* '''Dish Soap''' - A mild degreaser and surfactant, hand dish detergent is sometimes the best option. Try to avoid things with petroleum like Dawn. Use diluted in water with a damp cloth or toothbrush.
* '''Soft Scrub/Cif Cream/Viss Cleanser''' - Do not get the type with bleach in it! This can be used safely with a toothbrush on crinkle paint, the rough stuff from the late 40s through early 60s. Please test in an area that's not easily seen, first. Any problems with peeling paint will be made worse by scrubbing. This stuff is great for cleaning platens and making them a bit more grippy, too. Make sure you wipe it down well with a damp cloth a few times to get all residue off. Never use it on gloss paint!

==Penetrants==

These should not be used as oil, even if the package says you can. These include WD40, PB Blast, 3n1 Oil and the like. You will want something to free stuck screws. Drip some onto the screw head and let it penetrate into the threads. Don't spray it on your typewriter, as you'll have to clean it all off. Be patient and wait before trying to remove screws you haven't had out recently. It can be difficult to find proper replacements if you strip them.

==Oil==

The proper oil for typewriters is light machine oil. It's also used for sewing machines and guns, so you can use either of those.
Light machine oils include Rem-Oil, Hoppes 9, and even trumpet valve oil.

Despite popular belief in some places on the internet, oil is good for typewriters, in certain places. Manufacturers of typewriters like the Smith-Premier and Oliver came with oiling instructions and tools for a reason.

The belief that oil is bad for typewriters comes from this: DO NOT OVER-OIL, AND NEVER OIL DIRTY PARTS. Keep oil to places like carriage rails, carriage wheels, and the escapement. Sometimes the ribbon system, backspace, and tabulator mechanisms need oiling too. It is generally not recommended to oil the segment, because it is hard to clean thoroughly, but if it is ascertained that the segment is perfectly clean, light oil will improve the typewriter's running.

==Rust Removers==
=== Chemicals ===
* '''Do not put any of these on anything but bare metal.'''
* '''Evaporust''' - Nontoxic, water based, biodegradable, liquid. Apply with cotton swab.
* '''Naval Jelly''' - A bit toxic, use in a ventilated place, gel so it sticks on better. Apply with cotton swab or small paintbrush.
=== Physical ===
* '''Fine Wet-Sand''' - sandpaper or sponge meant to be used with water. This will keep dust down and quickly strips rust off things like rails.
* '''Emery Cloth''' - This is basically a very fine sandpaper. It's good for polishing. If you use wet sand, this should be your second step.
* '''Melamine Eraser''' - Works on surface rust, but takes a lot of elbow grease.
* '''Steel Wool''' - will leave shavings, so don't use on parts inside the machine without running a vacuum. Emery cloth is a better alternative.

==Waxes and Polishes==
* '''Carnauba Wax''' - Use pure carnauba wax to polish gloss painted areas. Rub on sparingly, allow to haze, buff off with clean soft cloth.
* '''Cleaning Wax''' - Look for a carnauba based cleaning wax like Mother's and use elbow grease with something like a microfiber or terrycloth rag.
* '''Beeswax''' - Not for the lazy. Warm a small piece in your hand until it's pliable. "Write" on the paint, then buff in immediately with fast, strong strokes using cloth like an old t-shirt. Once none of the writing is visible, polish with soft cloth. If the surface feels slightly sticky, you didn't buff enough. It's a lot of work, but the advantage is a very smooth shine that's quite durable and warm rather than extra glossy.
* '''Polishing Compound''' - Do not use this on paint. You can use it in places where you had to remove rust from bare metal to help smooth them out again.
* '''Rotary Tool Buffers''' - Some people like these and some do not. Be very gentle, and only use them on bare metal.

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2021-09-21T21:16:00Z

Ryanne: /* Brushes */

Though typewriter repair may appear to be a dark art, requiring complicated and specialised tooling, most --if not all-- typewriter issues can be fixed with simple household materials and materials from the local hardware or surplus store. This is a list of common tools that you may encounter.

__TOC__

=Tools=

Tools are very important for getting inside your typewriter and for removing parts. Here are a few tools that should be included in every repairman's case.
==Screwdrivers==

You’ll want a nice set of screwdrivers. Gunners' and long precision screwdrivers are very nice, and you’ll also want some with bigger handles for a better grip and for use with larger screws. Flat-head screwdrivers are most commonly used, you will rarely find any other kind of screw head. Holdy screwdrivers are also nice for driving hard-to-hold tiny screws. You can never have too many screwdrivers. 
Make sure you have screwdrivers that fit the head of the screw well. Any looseness can cause stripping.

==Pliers==

Another essential tool of a typewriter repairman. Pliers are great for holding things and forming parts. A set of needle nose pliers is used for repairs that involve forming (bending) metal, and having two or 3 of various lengths and sizes can not only help with accessing parts that are deep within the machine, but also make it much easier to make parts bend in a precise manner.

==Wrenches==

Many typewriters have nuts and bolts, along with screws. A good set of wrenches are essential for loosening these. The most common nut/bolt you will come across is 1/4”. An adjustable wrench is also good for those odd sizes you come across every now and again.

==Dental Picks==
Highly recommended; dental picks are peerless when it comes to removing gunk from thin areas and accessing tiny gaps. One end may be bent into a hook to assist drawband repairs. 
Check your grocery or drug store's dental care area, or look for clay tools at a craft store. It's a good idea to have plastic tips as well as metal if you can find them.

'''Spring Hooks''' are similar to dental picks, but are specifically designed for attaching extension springs. Useful, but not essential. Most dental picks will do the same job.

==Brushes==

* Toothbrush - hard stiffness recommended.
* Brass Brush - use only on unpainted metal, like typeslugs. Do not use on brass or very soft metals or anything painted.
* Straw cleaning brush and/or pipe cleaners - to get into small areas.
* Care detailing or soft paintbrushes - let you work cleaners into crevasses without being abrasive.

=Chemicals=
You want to use as little chemicals and oils as possible, but the most commonly used are below.

==Putty==
You can buy typeslug cleaning putty that can be used multiple times. Use it each time after you use your typewriter to keep the characters looking sharp. This putty will not remove old, caked on ink and dirt. Make sure you brush everything, first.

==Solvents, Scrubs, and Degreasers==
Solvents are commonly used to loosen caked on dirt, dust, and other gunk. Here are some common solvents and degreasers. Be careful with these as they are not good for paint or rubber and will also dissolve those. Do NOT EVER use these on decals.

* '''Isopropyl Alcohol''' - Alcohol is one of the less aggressive chemical solvents. It does not smell too harshly, and evaporates quickly. Isopropyl Alcohol is more accessible and less volatile.
* '''Mineral Spirits''' - Mineral Spirits are more volatile and aggressive than Isopropyl Alcohol. Be very careful with this, as the fumes are not good for your brain.
* '''Degreasers''' - There are various degreasers you can use. The most recommended are Mean Green, Purple Power, and Zep Orange. Once you have cleaned with these, you will need to flush the area with something like Isopropyl alcohol. Water can be used, as well, but make sure you get everything very dry.
* '''Dish Soap''' - A mild degreaser and surfactant, hand dish detergent is sometimes the best option. Try to avoid things with petroleum like Dawn. Use diluted in water with a damp cloth or toothbrush.
* '''Soft Scrub/Cif Cream/Viss Cleanser''' - Do not get the type with bleach in it! This can be used safely with a toothbrush on crinkle paint, the rough stuff from the late 40s through early 60s. Please test in an area that's not easily seen, first. Any problems with peeling paint will be made worse by scrubbing. This stuff is great for cleaning platens and making them a bit more grippy, too. Make sure you wipe it down well with a damp cloth a few times to get all residue off. Never use it on gloss paint!

==Penetrants==

These should not be used as oil, even if the package says you can. These include WD40, PB Blast, 3n1 Oil and the like. You will want something to free stuck screws. Drip some onto the screw head and let it penetrate into the threads. Don't spray it on your typewriter, as you'll have to clean it all off. Be patient and wait before trying to remove screws you haven't had out recently. It can be difficult to find proper replacements if you strip them.

==Oil==

The proper oil for typewriters is light machine oil. It's also used for sewing machines and guns, so you can use either of those.
Light machine oils include Rem-Oil, Hoppes 9, and even trumpet valve oil.

Despite popular belief in some places on the internet, oil is good for typewriters, in certain places. Manufacturers of typewriters like the Smith-Premier and Oliver came with oiling instructions and tools for a reason.

The belief that oil is bad for typewriters comes from this: DO NOT OVER-OIL, AND NEVER OIL DIRTY PARTS. Keep oil to places like carriage rails, carriage wheels, and the escapement. Sometimes the ribbon system, backspace, and tabulator mechanisms need oiling too. It is generally not recommended to oil the segment, because it is hard to clean thoroughly, but if it is ascertained that the segment is perfectly clean, light oil will improve the typewriter's running.

==Rust Removers==
=== Chemicals ===
* '''Do not put any of these on anything but bare metal.'''
* '''Evaporust''' - Nontoxic, water based, biodegradable, liquid. Apply with cotton swab.
* '''Naval Jelly''' - A bit toxic, use in a ventilated place, gel so it sticks on better. Apply with cotton swab or small paintbrush.
=== Physical ===
* '''Fine Wet-Sand''' - sandpaper or sponge meant to be used with water. This will keep dust down and quickly strips rust off things like rails.
* '''Emery Cloth''' - This is basically a very fine sandpaper. It's good for polishing. If you use wet sand, this should be your second step.
* '''Melamine Eraser''' - Works on surface rust, but takes a lot of elbow grease.
* '''Steel Wool''' - will leave shavings, so don't use on parts inside the machine without running a vacuum. Emery cloth is a better alternative.

==Waxes and Polishes==
* '''Carnauba Wax''' - Use pure carnauba wax to polish gloss painted areas. Rub on sparingly, allow to haze, buff off with clean soft cloth.
* '''Beeswax''' - Not for the lazy. Warm a small piece in your hand until it's pliable. "Write" on the paint, then buff in immediately with fast, strong strokes using cloth like an old t-shirt. Once none of the writing is visible, polish with soft cloth. If the surface feels slightly sticky, you didn't buff enough. It's a lot of work, but the advantage is a very smooth shine that's quite durable.
* '''Polishing Compound''' - Do not use this on paint. You can use it in places where you had to remove rust from bare metal to help smooth them out again.
* '''Rotary Tool Buffers''' - Some people like these and some do not. Be very gentle, and only use them on bare metal.

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2021-08-10T17:28:17Z

Ryanne: /* Solvents, Scrubs, and Degreasers */

Though typewriter repair may appear to be a dark art, requiring complicated and specialised tooling, most --if not all-- typewriter issues can be fixed with simple household materials and materials from the local hardware or surplus store. This is a list of common tools that you may encounter.

__TOC__

=Tools=

Tools are very important for getting inside your typewriter and for removing parts. Here are a few tools that should be included in every repairman's case.
==Screwdrivers==

You’ll want a nice set of screwdrivers. Gunners' and long precision screwdrivers are very nice, and you’ll also want some with bigger handles for a better grip and for use with larger screws. Flat-head screwdrivers are most commonly used, you will rarely find any other kind of screw head. Holdy screwdrivers are also nice for driving hard-to-hold tiny screws. You can never have too many screwdrivers. 
Make sure you have screwdrivers that fit the head of the screw well. Any looseness can cause stripping.

==Pliers==

Another essential tool of a typewriter repairman. Pliers are great for holding things and forming parts. A set of needle nose pliers is used for repairs that involve forming (bending) metal, and having two or 3 of various lengths and sizes can not only help with accessing parts that are deep within the machine, but also make it much easier to make parts bend in a precise manner.

==Wrenches==

Many typewriters have nuts and bolts, along with screws. A good set of wrenches are essential for loosening these. The most common nut/bolt you will come across is 1/4”. An adjustable wrench is also good for those odd sizes you come across every now and again.

==Dental Picks==
Highly recommended; dental picks are peerless when it comes to removing gunk from thin areas and accessing tiny gaps. One end may be bent into a hook to assist drawband repairs. 
Check your grocery or drug store's dental care area, or look for clay tools at a craft store. It's a good idea to have plastic tips as well as metal if you can find them.

'''Spring Hooks''' are similar to dental picks, but are specifically designed for attaching extension springs. Useful, but not essential. Most dental picks will do the same job.

==Brushes==
You will want at least a toothbrush. They come in various stiffness; a hard one is recommended. You can also use a brass brush on typeslugs and ''plain'' metal to remove rust. Do not use a metal brush on paint, chrome, or delicate areas. Straw cleaning brushes are useful for reaching parts deep inside your typewriter without having to take it apart, as well.

=Chemicals=
You want to use as little chemicals and oils as possible, but the most commonly used are below.

==Putty==
You can buy typeslug cleaning putty that can be used multiple times. Use it each time after you use your typewriter to keep the characters looking sharp. This putty will not remove old, caked on ink and dirt. Make sure you brush everything, first.

==Solvents, Scrubs, and Degreasers==
Solvents are commonly used to loosen caked on dirt, dust, and other gunk. Here are some common solvents and degreasers. Be careful with these as they are not good for paint or rubber and will also dissolve those. Do NOT EVER use these on decals.

* '''Isopropyl Alcohol''' - Alcohol is one of the less aggressive chemical solvents. It does not smell too harshly, and evaporates quickly. Isopropyl Alcohol is more accessible and less volatile.
* '''Mineral Spirits''' - Mineral Spirits are more volatile and aggressive than Isopropyl Alcohol. Be very careful with this, as the fumes are not good for your brain.
* '''Degreasers''' - There are various degreasers you can use. The most recommended are Mean Green, Purple Power, and Zep Orange. Once you have cleaned with these, you will need to flush the area with something like Isopropyl alcohol. Water can be used, as well, but make sure you get everything very dry.
* '''Dish Soap''' - A mild degreaser and surfactant, hand dish detergent is sometimes the best option. Try to avoid things with petroleum like Dawn. Use diluted in water with a damp cloth or toothbrush.
* '''Soft Scrub/Cif Cream/Viss Cleanser''' - Do not get the type with bleach in it! This can be used safely with a toothbrush on crinkle paint, the rough stuff from the late 40s through early 60s. Please test in an area that's not easily seen, first. Any problems with peeling paint will be made worse by scrubbing. This stuff is great for cleaning platens and making them a bit more grippy, too. Make sure you wipe it down well with a damp cloth a few times to get all residue off. Never use it on gloss paint!

==Penetrants==

These should not be used as oil, even if the package says you can. These include WD40, PB Blast, 3n1 Oil and the like. You will want something to free stuck screws. Drip some onto the screw head and let it penetrate into the threads. Don't spray it on your typewriter, as you'll have to clean it all off. Be patient and wait before trying to remove screws you haven't had out recently. It can be difficult to find proper replacements if you strip them.

==Oil==

The proper oil for typewriters is light machine oil. It's also used for sewing machines and guns, so you can use either of those.
Light machine oils include Rem-Oil, Hoppes 9, and even trumpet valve oil.

Despite popular belief in some places on the internet, oil is good for typewriters, in certain places. Manufacturers of typewriters like the Smith-Premier and Oliver came with oiling instructions and tools for a reason.

The belief that oil is bad for typewriters comes from this: DO NOT OVER-OIL, AND NEVER OIL DIRTY PARTS. Keep oil to places like carriage rails, carriage wheels, and the escapement. Sometimes the ribbon system, backspace, and tabulator mechanisms need oiling too. It is generally not recommended to oil the segment, because it is hard to clean thoroughly, but if it is ascertained that the segment is perfectly clean, light oil will improve the typewriter's running.

==Rust Removers==
=== Chemicals ===
* '''Do not put any of these on anything but bare metal.'''
* '''Evaporust''' - Nontoxic, water based, biodegradable, liquid. Apply with cotton swab.
* '''Naval Jelly''' - A bit toxic, use in a ventilated place, gel so it sticks on better. Apply with cotton swab or small paintbrush.
=== Physical ===
* '''Fine Wet-Sand''' - sandpaper or sponge meant to be used with water. This will keep dust down and quickly strips rust off things like rails.
* '''Emery Cloth''' - This is basically a very fine sandpaper. It's good for polishing. If you use wet sand, this should be your second step.
* '''Melamine Eraser''' - Works on surface rust, but takes a lot of elbow grease.
* '''Steel Wool''' - will leave shavings, so don't use on parts inside the machine without running a vacuum. Emery cloth is a better alternative.

==Waxes and Polishes==
* '''Carnauba Wax''' - Use pure carnauba wax to polish gloss painted areas. Rub on sparingly, allow to haze, buff off with clean soft cloth.
* '''Beeswax''' - Not for the lazy. Warm a small piece in your hand until it's pliable. "Write" on the paint, then buff in immediately with fast, strong strokes using cloth like an old t-shirt. Once none of the writing is visible, polish with soft cloth. If the surface feels slightly sticky, you didn't buff enough. It's a lot of work, but the advantage is a very smooth shine that's quite durable.
* '''Polishing Compound''' - Do not use this on paint. You can use it in places where you had to remove rust from bare metal to help smooth them out again.
* '''Rotary Tool Buffers''' - Some people like these and some do not. Be very gentle, and only use them on bare metal.

Typewriter Wiki:General disclaimer

2021-07-13T21:08:53Z

Ryanne:

DISCLAIMER

The Typewriter Wiki is a tool created and edited by typewriter collectors and hobbyists. Although we do our best to uphold quality on this site, there is no guaranty, implied or otherwise, that any of these methods are 100% going to work and we do not take any liability for any damage you or your typewriters may sustain or cause.

Main Page

2021-07-13T21:08:24Z

Ryanne: /* Gallery */

Welcome to the Typewriter Wiki

We are a small group of typewriter-enthusiasts that are trying to get some common information written down and preserved for all to see. Please note that this is NOT to replace the [https://typewriterdatabase.com/ Typewriter Database] or Wikipedia, but instead is an effort to expand on those great resources. This site was created by the [https://discord.gg/ws5Gzaf Typewriter Discord server], so if you would like to help out, go there and ask in the #typewriterwiki channel. [https://discord.gg/ws5Gzaf Here's an invite].

Please note that the Typewriter Wiki is still quite new, so please mind our dust as we complete pages and add more content.

== Getting started ==

* How do I choose a typewriter? Which ones are good or valuable? [[Recommended Machines]]
* Have a question? [[Common Questions]]
* Don't know what that thingy is called? [[Typewriter Anatomy]].
* A Repairman's Toolkit [[Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses]]
* Specialty Typewriter Tools [[Specialized Typewriter Tools]]
* I want a typewriter. What should I get? [[How To Buy a Typewriter]]
* I just got a typewriter. Where should I start? [[How to Use Your New (Or Old!) Typewriter]]
* I just got a typewriter, and it's dirtier than my basement! [[Typewriter Cleaning and Cleanliness]]
* How do I make =, +, $, £, etc. my typewriter doesn't have? [[Special Characters]]
* Typewriter Identification in [[Typewriter Classifications]]

==Typewriter List==
An alphabetical list of some brands and models can be found in the article [[:Category:Typewriter]], though this is by no means incomplete. Historical and technical information can found in the pages it lists, each about a specific typewriter. This is by no means a comprehensive list, and is being updated periodically.

== Highlights: [[:Category:Typewriter]] ==

*[[Blickensderfer No. 6]]
*[[Royal Quiet De Luxe]]

==Brand Page==
Use this page to search for machines based off branding, instead of just the massive list of typewriters thrown at your face. 
[[:Category:Typewriter Brands]]

==Gallery==
Images of typewriters from the wiki: 
[[Gallery]]

IMPORTANT [[Typewriter Wiki:General disclaimer]] IMPORTANT

Main Page

2021-07-13T21:08:06Z

Ryanne: /* Brand Page */

Welcome to the Typewriter Wiki

We are a small group of typewriter-enthusiasts that are trying to get some common information written down and preserved for all to see. Please note that this is NOT to replace the [https://typewriterdatabase.com/ Typewriter Database] or Wikipedia, but instead is an effort to expand on those great resources. This site was created by the [https://discord.gg/ws5Gzaf Typewriter Discord server], so if you would like to help out, go there and ask in the #typewriterwiki channel. [https://discord.gg/ws5Gzaf Here's an invite].

Please note that the Typewriter Wiki is still quite new, so please mind our dust as we complete pages and add more content.

== Getting started ==

* How do I choose a typewriter? Which ones are good or valuable? [[Recommended Machines]]
* Have a question? [[Common Questions]]
* Don't know what that thingy is called? [[Typewriter Anatomy]].
* A Repairman's Toolkit [[Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses]]
* Specialty Typewriter Tools [[Specialized Typewriter Tools]]
* I want a typewriter. What should I get? [[How To Buy a Typewriter]]
* I just got a typewriter. Where should I start? [[How to Use Your New (Or Old!) Typewriter]]
* I just got a typewriter, and it's dirtier than my basement! [[Typewriter Cleaning and Cleanliness]]
* How do I make =, +, $, £, etc. my typewriter doesn't have? [[Special Characters]]
* Typewriter Identification in [[Typewriter Classifications]]

==Typewriter List==
An alphabetical list of some brands and models can be found in the article [[:Category:Typewriter]], though this is by no means incomplete. Historical and technical information can found in the pages it lists, each about a specific typewriter. This is by no means a comprehensive list, and is being updated periodically.

== Highlights: [[:Category:Typewriter]] ==

*[[Blickensderfer No. 6]]
*[[Royal Quiet De Luxe]]

==Brand Page==
Use this page to search for machines based off branding, instead of just the massive list of typewriters thrown at your face. 
[[:Category:Typewriter Brands]]

==Gallery==
Images from the wiki:
[[Gallery]]

IMPORTANT [[Typewriter Wiki:General disclaimer]] IMPORTANT

Main Page

2021-07-13T21:07:31Z

Ryanne:

Welcome to the Typewriter Wiki

We are a small group of typewriter-enthusiasts that are trying to get some common information written down and preserved for all to see. Please note that this is NOT to replace the [https://typewriterdatabase.com/ Typewriter Database] or Wikipedia, but instead is an effort to expand on those great resources. This site was created by the [https://discord.gg/ws5Gzaf Typewriter Discord server], so if you would like to help out, go there and ask in the #typewriterwiki channel. [https://discord.gg/ws5Gzaf Here's an invite].

Please note that the Typewriter Wiki is still quite new, so please mind our dust as we complete pages and add more content.

== Getting started ==

* How do I choose a typewriter? Which ones are good or valuable? [[Recommended Machines]]
* Have a question? [[Common Questions]]
* Don't know what that thingy is called? [[Typewriter Anatomy]].
* A Repairman's Toolkit [[Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses]]
* Specialty Typewriter Tools [[Specialized Typewriter Tools]]
* I want a typewriter. What should I get? [[How To Buy a Typewriter]]
* I just got a typewriter. Where should I start? [[How to Use Your New (Or Old!) Typewriter]]
* I just got a typewriter, and it's dirtier than my basement! [[Typewriter Cleaning and Cleanliness]]
* How do I make =, +, $, £, etc. my typewriter doesn't have? [[Special Characters]]
* Typewriter Identification in [[Typewriter Classifications]]

==Typewriter List==
An alphabetical list of some brands and models can be found in the article [[:Category:Typewriter]], though this is by no means incomplete. Historical and technical information can found in the pages it lists, each about a specific typewriter. This is by no means a comprehensive list, and is being updated periodically.

== Highlights: [[:Category:Typewriter]] ==

*[[Blickensderfer No. 6]]
*[[Royal Quiet De Luxe]]

==Brand Page==
Use this page to search for machines based off branding, instead of just the massive list of typewriters thrown at your face.
[[:Category:Typewriter Brands]]

==Gallery==
Images from the wiki:
[[Gallery]]

IMPORTANT [[Typewriter Wiki:General disclaimer]] IMPORTANT

Gallery

2021-07-13T20:38:19Z

Ryanne: Created page with "<gallery> BlickNo6 TopView.jpg Royal QDL.jpg Smith-corona classic-12.jpg Royal-KMM.jpg Mark's QDL.jpg Candy Royal Peterson.jpg Smith-corona silent-super overhead.jpg Varityper..."

<gallery>
BlickNo6 TopView.jpg
Royal QDL.jpg
Smith-corona classic-12.jpg
Royal-KMM.jpg
Mark's QDL.jpg
Candy Royal Peterson.jpg
Smith-corona silent-super overhead.jpg
Varityper1.jpg
Hammond1ideal.jpg
Hammondfolding-01.jpg
Peewee's KHM.jpg
F0D449E9-BF17-470B-ABCD-01DC80BAE2F5.jpg
IBM Selectric I.jpg
Download.jpg
Corona3.jpg
</gallery>

Main Page

2021-07-13T20:29:54Z

Ryanne:

Welcome to the Typewriter Wiki

We are a small group of typewriter-enthusiasts that are trying to get some common information written down and preserved for all to see. Please note that this is NOT to replace the [https://typewriterdatabase.com/ Typewriter Database] or Wikipedia, but instead is an effort to expand on those great resources. This site was created by the [https://discord.gg/ws5Gzaf Typewriter Discord server], so if you would like to help out, go there and ask in the #typewriterwiki channel. [https://discord.gg/ws5Gzaf Here's an invite].

Want an account so you can make changes? Create an account, then go to the [https://discord.gg/ws5Gzaf Typewriter Discord server] and ask in #typewriterwiki for edit permissions.

Please note that the Typewriter Wiki is still under construction, so please mind our dust as we complete pages and add more content.

== Getting started ==

* How do I choose a typewriter? Which ones are good or valuable? [[Recommended Machines]]
* Have a question? [[Common Questions]]
* Don't know what that thingy is called? [[Typewriter Anatomy]].
* A Repairman's Toolkit [[Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses]]
* Specialty Typewriter Tools [[Specialized Typewriter Tools]]
* I want a typewriter. What should I get? [[How To Buy a Typewriter]]
* I just got a typewriter. Where should I start? [[How to Use Your New (Or Old!) Typewriter]]
* I just got a typewriter, and it's dirtier than my basement! [[Typewriter Cleaning and Cleanliness]]
* How do I make =, +, $, £, etc. my typewriter doesn't have? [[Special Characters]]
* Typewriter Identification in [[Typewriter Classifications]]

==Typewriter List==
An alphabetical list of some brands and models can be found in the article [[:Category:Typewriter]], though this is by no means incomplete. Historical and technical information can found in the pages it lists, each about a specific typewriter. This is by no means a comprehensive list, and is being updated periodically.

== Highlights: [[:Category:Typewriter]] ==

*[[Blickensderfer No. 6]]
*[[Royal Quiet De Luxe]]

==Brand Page==
Use this page to search for machines based off branding, instead of just the massive list of typewriters thrown at your face.
[[:Category:Typewriter Brands]]

==Gallery==
Images from the wiki [[Gallery]]

IMPORTANT [[Typewriter Wiki:General disclaimer]] IMPORTANT

Main Page

2021-07-13T20:10:34Z

Ryanne:

Welcome to the Typewriter Wiki

We are a small group of typewriter-enthusiasts that are trying to get some common information written down and preserved for all to see. Please note that this is NOT to replace the [https://typewriterdatabase.com/ Typewriter Database] or Wikipedia, but instead is an effort to expand on those great resources. This site was created by the [https://discord.gg/ws5Gzaf Typewriter Discord server], so if you would like to help out, go there and ask in the #typewriterwiki channel. [https://discord.gg/ws5Gzaf Here's an invite].

Want an account so you can make changes? Create an account, then go to the [https://discord.gg/ws5Gzaf Typewriter Discord server] and ask in #typewriterwiki for edit permissions.

Please note that the Typewriter Wiki is still under construction, so please mind our dust as we complete pages and add more content.

== Getting started ==

* How do I choose a typewriter? Which ones are good or valuable? [[Recommended Machines]]
* Have a question? [[Common Questions]]
* Don't know what that thingy is called? [[Typewriter Anatomy]].
* A Repairman's Toolkit [[Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses]]
* Specialty Typewriter Tools [[Specialized Typewriter Tools]]
* I want a typewriter. What should I get? [[How To Buy a Typewriter]]
* I just got a typewriter. Where should I start? [[How to Use Your New (Or Old!) Typewriter]]
* I just got a typewriter, and it's dirtier than my basement! [[Typewriter Cleaning and Cleanliness]]
* How do I make =, +, $, £, etc. my typewriter doesn't have? [[Special Characters]]
* Typewriter Identification in [[Typewriter Classifications]]

==Typewriter List==
An alphabetical list of some brands and models can be found in the article [[:Category:Typewriter]], though this is by no means incomplete. Historical and technical information can found in the pages it lists, each about a specific typewriter. This is by no means a comprehensive list, and is being updated periodically.

== Highlights: [[:Category:Typewriter]] ==

*[[Blickensderfer No. 6]]
*[[Royal Quiet De Luxe]]

==Brand Page==
Use this page to search for machines based off branding, instead of just the massive list of typewriters thrown at your face.
[[:Category:Typewriter Brands]]

IMPORTANT [[Typewriter Wiki:General disclaimer]] IMPORTANT

Blickensderfer

2021-07-13T20:09:43Z

Ryanne:

== '''Blickensderfer''' ==

The Blickensderfer typewriter was invented by George C. Blickensderfer around 1893, and won fame at the World's Columbian Exhibition of the same year, where the light and portable machines kept up with much heavier typewriters like the Hammond and Caligraph.

Please see a specific model below:

* Blickensderfer No. 1
* Blickensderfer No. 2
* Blickensderfer No. 3
* Blickensderfer No. 4
* Blickensderfer No. 5
* [[Blickensderfer No. 6]]
* Blickensderfer No. 7

[[Category:Typewriter Brands]]

Blickensderfer

2021-07-13T20:06:51Z

Ryanne:

Blickensderfer

2021-07-13T20:05:59Z

Ryanne:

Recommended Machines

2021-05-18T23:18:41Z

Ryanne:

== Recommended Typewriters ==

Buying your first typewriter is often a daunting task. With thousands of models to choose from, and thousands of price points to consider, how can you know you're buying a solid machine that types well, is easily repaired and well-built? Here are a few editors' picks for top typewriters. Please do note that these impressions are subjective and all machines will be somewhat unique. It's part of their history.

__Standards__
*[[Underwood 5]]

*[[Olympia SG1]]

*[[Remington 24]]

*[[Royal KMM/KMG/similar]]

*[[Remington Standard 7]]

__Portables__
*[[Smith - Corona Midsized Portables]]

*[[Brother JP-1 and Similar]]

*[[Underwood Four Bank Portables]]

*[[Hermes 2000 and 3000]]

*[[Torpedo 18B]]

*[[Remington Portables nos. 1-5]]

*[[Royal QDL]]

*[[Remington Quiet-Riter]]

*[[Olympia SM series]]

*[[Olivetti Lettera 22, 32, and Studio 44]]

__Ultraportables__
*[[Smith - Corona Skyriter and Zephyr]]

*[[Groma Ultraportables]]

*[[Silver - Seikou Ultraportables]]

*[[Adler - Tippa S]]

Blickensderfer 6 Type Cylinder

2020-12-05T21:14:59Z

Ryanne:

Type cylinders are specific to the keyboard layout. When looking for additional ones online, check the layout unless you want to learn a new one with no key labels.

These type cylinders are made of a hardened rubber that ages over time and become brittle. Do not drop them, as they may shatter. Also, clean after each use with a soft damp cloth by patting rather than wiping. If more cleaning is needed, use a very small amount of a non-citrus or petroleum based dish detergent in water with a soft toothbrush, rinse with cool water, then pat dry. Examples of detergent not to use: Dawn, Joy. Examples of safe detergents: Seventh Generation Free and Clear, Method. All detergents like this do have some citric acid, so use sparingly and rinse clean quickly. Do not soak in water, as this can break down the rubber. Also store somewhere dark unless your display has UV blocking film or glass.

Each cylinder should have a small metal clip at the top centered on the central shaft of the cylinder. To remove from the machine, spin this clip one hole to the left or right and lift the cylinder. To attach a new cylinder, look for the small hole on the bottom. This goes on the flat piece next to the center shaft on the machine. Place the cylinder evenly on both and it should drop into place. Spin the clip back, so it catches under the lip of the flat metal piece that went through the smaller hole. If this clip is missing, your alignment will usually be off, and CAP and FIG will not work properly. You can make one with a small piece of wire.

[[File:Blick Type Cylinder.jpg|thumb|Blick Type Cylinder]]

Blickensderfer 6 Ink and Roller

2020-12-05T19:32:23Z

Ryanne:

Blickensderfer machines use ink rollers rather than a ribbon. For the Blick No. 6, the dimensions are approximately 8mm (1/4 inch) diameter and 1cm (3/8 inch) long.
The originals are getting difficult to find, but you can make your own.

What it takes:
# dense wool felt
# A sharp craft knife
# Sharp, small scissors like embroidery scissors
# a small metal skewer or thick needle to punch a hole

Use your knife to carve a small cylinder into shape a bit larger than you need. Go slowly and have patience. Dense wool is hard to cut in a round shape. Trim the roller with the scissors until it's as round as possible. Use the needle or skewer to repeatedly jab it at the points that stick out until it's round.

The roller can be slightly smaller that optimal, but larger will cause it to either not spin or to rub on your paper. Ideally, you want a perfect cylinder. If the pad is thinner in the middle your ink will not be applied well.

Tips: Start with a wool polishing bob and cut it to size. You'll already have the basic shape, the right wool, and hole most of the way through. You won't need the knife in this case

You can use stamp ink - pigment or anything water based is fine. You can also make your own ink by mixing liquid watercolours or fountain pen ink with glycerine. So far, the best ink seems to be Tsukineko Ultimate Pigment Ink. It comes in several nice colours as well as black. 
'''Do not use solvent based inks.''' They will break down the cylinder.

[[File:Blick No 6 Ink Roller.jpg|thumb|Handmade Blick Ink Roller]]

Special Characters

2020-12-04T04:20:22Z

Ryanne:

This is a starter list of how to make special characters. Photos in different typefaces will be added.

'''$''' S <backspace> / 
'''¢''' c <backspace> / 
'''£''' f <backspace> _ 
'''ç''' c <backspace> , 
'''=''' - <backspace & rotate platen slightly> - 
'''≠''' - <backspace & rotate platen slightly> - <backspace> / 
'''1''' l (Use a lower case L for 1.) 
'''!''' ' <backspace> . 
'''Ø or ø''' O or o <backspace> / 
'''Æ or æ''' A or a <nudge the carriage back slightly> E or e 
'''þ''' b <backspace> p 
'''đ''' d <backspace> t 
'''÷''' - <backspace> : 
'''§''' <roll platen slightly up> S <backspace & roll platen down> S <return platen to original position>

Special Characters

2020-12-04T01:50:37Z

Ryanne: Special Characters with a Typewriter

This is a starter list of how to make special characters. Photos in different typefaces will be added.

'''$''' S <backspace> / 
'''¢''' c <backspace> / 
'''£''' f <backspace> _ 
'''ç''' c <backspace> , 
'''=''' - <backspace & rotate platen slightly> - 
'''≠''' - <backspace & rotate platen slightly> - <backspace> / 
'''1''' l (Use a lower case L for 1.) 
'''!''' ' <backspace> . 
'''Ø or ø''' O or o <backspace> / 
'''Æ or æ''' A or a <nudge the carriage back slightly> E or e 
'''þ''' b <backspace> p 
'''đ''' d <backspace> t 
'''÷''' - <backspace> : 
'''§''' <roll platen slightly up> S <roll platen down> S <return platen to original position>

Main Page

2020-12-04T01:33:17Z

Ryanne: /* Getting started */

Common Questions

2020-11-30T20:48:49Z

Ryanne: /* How do I fix a sticky ribbon vibrator? */

Others have felt your pain.

== Common Repairs ==
===How Do I Clean My Typewriter?===
Check out cleaning tips in [[Typewriter Cleaning and Cleanliness]]

=== How do I reattach the drawband? ===

The concept is similar across many typewriters. Check out some of these videos:

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-R_85kmKMM Royal Typewriter Draw Band String Cable Reattached Main Spring Wound]

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7WUF8hV-0U Royal "O" Typewriter Draw Band Repaired Replaced Mainspring Wound]

== Common Problems ==

=== How do I fix a sticky ribbon vibrator?===

The most likely cause is gunk in the path where it travels. Flush it a few times with a cleaner. If it moves fine when still wet, spray compressed air in to get all the cleaner out, and repeat a few times.

It is also possible something is bent. Bending things back - called reforming - is something you need to be very delicate with and careful about. Older metal is often brittle, and when it isn't, it's still sometimes easy to crease. Make very tiny adjustments and check if it works each time.

===What do I do if letters are getting cut off?===

This could be because your ribbon vibrator (the part that raises the ribbon up) is not raising enough OR that you need some adjustment to the shift mechanism. A fix for the former can be easier and should be attempted first. However, before any repairs should be attempted, make sure it is *clean*. Dirt and will also prevent it from raising high enough. On a few machines, an improperly threaded ribbon will also cause this issue.

Common Questions

2020-11-30T20:46:44Z

Ryanne: /* How do I reattach the drawband? */

Others have felt your pain.

== Common Repairs ==
===How Do I Clean My Typewriter?===
Check out cleaning tips in [[Typewriter Cleaning and Cleanliness]]

=== How do I reattach the drawband? ===

The concept is similar across many typewriters. Check out some of these videos:

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-R_85kmKMM Royal Typewriter Draw Band String Cable Reattached Main Spring Wound]

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7WUF8hV-0U Royal "O" Typewriter Draw Band Repaired Replaced Mainspring Wound]

== Common Problems ==

=== How do I fix a sticky ribbon vibrator?===

Could be gunked up or need to be re-formed. Definitely rule out all other potential causes before bending the metal.

===What do I do if letters are getting cut off?===

This could be because your ribbon vibrator (the part that raises the ribbon up) is not raising enough OR that you need some adjustment to the shift mechanism. A fix for the former can be easier and should be attempted first. However, before any repairs should be attempted, make sure it is *clean*. Dirt and will also prevent it from raising high enough. On a few machines, an improperly threaded ribbon will also cause this issue.

Typewriter Anatomy

2020-11-30T19:51:44Z

Ryanne: /* Plain English */

__TOC__

== Naming a Part ==

=== Labeled Diagrams ===

Click to see a larger image. Even if one of these is not the exact model of your typewriter, the part will be called the same.

<gallery mode="packed">
super-silent-anatomy.jpg|Smith-Corona Silent-Super
Screenshot_2020-09-20_at_12.57.26_PM.png|Remington Noiseless Portable
Screenshot_2020-09-20_at_12.53.38_PM.png|Royal Quiet De Lux
</gallery>

Don't see your part above? Typewriter Manuals often feature labeled typewriter anatomies. You can find manuals for some common brands and models (and a few rare ones) on [https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html Richard Polt's Site].

=== Plain English ===

* Part that '''holds down the paper''' when you’re writing: Paper Bail

* The '''ruler''' by where the paper goes in: Paper scale

* The thing that '''holds the ribbon''' and rises when you hit a key: ribbon vibrator, ribbon shaker, or ribbon carrier.

* ''' Big silver lever''', usually on the left side: Carriage Return Lever.

== Usage/Meanings ==

* '''Carriage''' - The part of the typewriter that moves back and forth to allow characters to end up where they should. This includes the platen, the frame it rests on, line spacing set mechanism, etc.

* '''Carriage Rail''' - a smooth metal rail the carriage slides across as it moves. These need to be really smooth and rust free. They are one of the few places you should oil.

* '''Escapement''' - The carriage rests on the escapement - the part that only allows the carriage to move forward one space at a time. The main part to be aware of is the star wheel. If teeth are broken off it or very worn, your typewriter will have issues advancing properly.

* '''Carriage Return Lever''' - Used for moving to the next line and returning the carriage to the beginning of the line

* '''Carriage Release''' - Used for moving the carriage around

* '''Paper Release''' - Releases the paper feed rollers, allows you to move paper around freely so you can align it

* '''Platen''' - Pronounced platten, like platter. The (usually black) rubber cylinder the paper rolls around.

* '''Paper Feeds''' - Small round cylinders pressed against the platen to hold the paper on it as it is rolled around the platen.

* '''Platen Variable''' - Allows you to freely turn the paper using the platen knobs, without the ratchet snapping it to the next line

* '''Paper Injector''' - Allows you to feed in paper by placing the paper in the carriage and activating a lever or dial.

* '''Margin Release''' - A key or button that allows you to type past your right margin setting as long as there is platen left. This is marked with "margin release", "MR", four dots, or even nothing at all.

* '''Touch Control''' - Some typewriters have a dial or slider that lets you set how much pressure you need to put on the keys to get them to work.

* '''Alignment''' - Refers to the lining up of characters in a row across the page.

* '''Keyslugs''' - Metal bits with the characters in reverse that are soldered (or sometimes clipped) onto the type bars.

* '''Type Bars''' - also called key strikers, usually by older people, these are the metal arms that raise (or lower) the keyslugs to the paper.

* '''Linkages''' - The connections between type bars and the metal that comes off the keys themselves.

Typewriter Anatomy

2020-11-30T19:51:03Z

Ryanne: /* Usage/Meanings */

__TOC__

== Naming a Part ==

=== Labeled Diagrams ===

Click to see a larger image. Even if one of these is not the exact model of your typewriter, the part will be called the same.

<gallery mode="packed">
super-silent-anatomy.jpg|Smith-Corona Silent-Super
Screenshot_2020-09-20_at_12.57.26_PM.png|Remington Noiseless Portable
Screenshot_2020-09-20_at_12.53.38_PM.png|Royal Quiet De Lux
</gallery>

Don't see your part above? Typewriter Manuals often feature labeled typewriter anatomies. You can find manuals for some common brands and models (and a few rare ones) on [https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html Richard Polt's Site].

=== Plain English ===

* Part that '''holds down the paper''' when you’re writing: Paper Bail

* The '''ruler''' by where the paper goes in: Paper scale

* The thing that '''holds the ribbon''' and rises when you hit a key: ribbon vibrator or ribbon shaker.

* ''' Big silver lever''', usually on the left side: Carriage Return Lever.

== Usage/Meanings ==

* '''Carriage''' - The part of the typewriter that moves back and forth to allow characters to end up where they should. This includes the platen, the frame it rests on, line spacing set mechanism, etc.

* '''Carriage Rail''' - a smooth metal rail the carriage slides across as it moves. These need to be really smooth and rust free. They are one of the few places you should oil.

* '''Escapement''' - The carriage rests on the escapement - the part that only allows the carriage to move forward one space at a time. The main part to be aware of is the star wheel. If teeth are broken off it or very worn, your typewriter will have issues advancing properly.

* '''Carriage Return Lever''' - Used for moving to the next line and returning the carriage to the beginning of the line

* '''Carriage Release''' - Used for moving the carriage around

* '''Paper Release''' - Releases the paper feed rollers, allows you to move paper around freely so you can align it

* '''Platen''' - Pronounced platten, like platter. The (usually black) rubber cylinder the paper rolls around.

* '''Paper Feeds''' - Small round cylinders pressed against the platen to hold the paper on it as it is rolled around the platen.

* '''Platen Variable''' - Allows you to freely turn the paper using the platen knobs, without the ratchet snapping it to the next line

* '''Paper Injector''' - Allows you to feed in paper by placing the paper in the carriage and activating a lever or dial.

* '''Margin Release''' - A key or button that allows you to type past your right margin setting as long as there is platen left. This is marked with "margin release", "MR", four dots, or even nothing at all.

* '''Touch Control''' - Some typewriters have a dial or slider that lets you set how much pressure you need to put on the keys to get them to work.

* '''Alignment''' - Refers to the lining up of characters in a row across the page.

* '''Keyslugs''' - Metal bits with the characters in reverse that are soldered (or sometimes clipped) onto the type bars.

* '''Type Bars''' - also called key strikers, usually by older people, these are the metal arms that raise (or lower) the keyslugs to the paper.

* '''Linkages''' - The connections between type bars and the metal that comes off the keys themselves.

How to Use Your New (Or Old!) Typewriter

2020-11-25T23:39:06Z

Ryanne:

Congrats! You got your first typewriter! Maybe you bought it online, or found it in your attic or garage. If you have no idea how to use one of these, this is a good place to start.

__TOC__

==How to Load Paper==

The first step to begin typing is to load paper into your machine. First, take your sheet of paper, put it face up on the table, and grab the top of the paper and flip it over itself. (Pull the top to the bottom) This orients the paper so you type where you want it to type. Now take the paper and drop it behind the platen, the large rubber roller in the carriage. After the paper is dropped in, twist the right hand platen knob clockwise to load the paper in. Load the paper so it is about halfway in, and pull the paper release lever. Next bring the top and bottom corners of your paper together and push the paper release back down. Roll your paper to the top of the page by twisting the right platen knob counter-clockwise, and you are set to begin typing! Don't forget to set your margins!

==Margins==

Margins are used to set how wide your writing line is on your paper. Margins are set in two typical ways. The first is manual margins. Manual margins are set on the back of the carriage. Usually, you just push down on the button on the margin, and move it to your desired position. The other style is "Magic Margins", first introduced by Royal with the KMM in 1939. Instead of moving the margins themselves, you use a button or lever to release the margin, and move the carriage to the desired position for that margin. It is best to check your manual for proper operation, this description is only to give you a introduction to the different types.

==Tabulation==

Tabulation (or tabulating) is for moving the carriage quickly to preset stops, from left to right. Each press of the tabulator button (sometimes called TAB) will cause the carriage to "jump" from your current position to the next tab stop. Note this only works from left to right and does not work in reverse. Tabulating is commonly used for indenting paragraphs and lists, and justifying information, often numbers, on spreadsheets. The latter is commonly done with what's known as a decimal tabulator.

Tabs are set in two ways. The first, commonly found on earlier machines, is to move tab stops from position to position on a rack on the back of the carriage. To set a stop, put a tab stop at the desired position on the scale on the tab rack. The second, commonly found on later machines, is known as a "key set tabulator." The tab rack consists of a bunch of tab stops, which are set by pressing down on the "tab set" key, and cleared with the "clear" key. Simply move the carriage to the desired position and press the "set" key to set a tab stop. Note, many portables also have a tab set/stop lever, which sets tabs when you pull down on it and clears tabs when you push up on it. Whichever tab system you have, be sure to check your machine's manual for proper operation.

Tabs should not be set far apart from each other. Try to keep about 5-15 spaces between each one. If your machine only came with a few tab stops, either put them on the extreme left, or use your hand to slow down the carriage as you tab.

==End of the Line==

Once you reach the end of your line, you should hear a ding. This is the margin warning ding, an auditory warning to let you know that you are at the end of your line. The bell usually rings 5-10 spaces before you end your line. If you are finishing a short word, end it now and use the carriage return lever to move to the next line. If you have a long word, either wait for the end-of-line-lock (a mechanism that locks up the keys so you can't type past the margin) to engage and press the Margin or Marginal Release button, or truncate the word and add a "-" to the latter half of the work on the next line. Whatever you do, try not to type on the platen, as this can damage it.

==Color Selector==

The Color Selector is what the typewriter uses to make use of both halves of the ribbon. Ribbons come in two styles: Monochrome and Bichrome. Monochrome ribbons are one color, while Bichrome ribbons are 2 colors. Bichrome ribbons have one color on top and one on the bottom, usually black and red, respectively. Color selectors usually have 3 settings: Black, red, and stencil (usually indicated by a white dot), not always in that order. Black uses the top half of the ribbon, red uses the bottom, and stencil uses no ribbon. Stencil was used for cutting stencils for Mimeographs. Some machines, like Hermes 3000s, have more than 3 positions on their color selector, which is for the middle of the ribbon. This is so you can get the most use out of a monochrome ribbon, because it is the same color no matter where you print.

==Ribbon Management==

Your typewriter uses ribbons to type. Ribbons should last just about 5 months. Your manual should include instructions on removing and replacing the ribbon. Be sure to store ribbons in an airtight bag or container to prevent them from drying out. 
Different machines have different methods of putting ribbons in (and some don't even use ribbons), but the general idea is that the ribbon is guided through a set of upright holders on either side of where the keyslug will hit it. When threaded, the ribbon should be the thing closest to the paper rather than the guides being closest.

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2020-11-25T22:41:57Z

Ryanne: /* Waxes and Polishes */

Though typewriter repair may appear to be a dark art, requiring complicated and specialised tooling, most --if not all-- typewriter issues can be fixed with simple household materials and materials from the local hardware or surplus store. This is a list of common tools that you may encounter.

__TOC__

=Tools=

Tools are very important for getting inside your typewriter and for removing parts. Here are a few tools that should be included in every repairman's case.
==Screwdrivers==

You’ll want a nice set of screwdrivers. Long precision screwdrivers are very nice, and you’ll also want some with bigger handles for a better grip and for use with larger screws. Flat-head screwdrivers are most commonly used, you will rarely find any other kind of screw head. Holdy screwdrivers are also nice for driving hard-to-hold tiny screws. You can never have too many screwdrivers. 
Make sure you have screwdrivers that fit the head of the screw well. Any looseness can cause stripping.

==Pliers==

Another essential tool of a typewriter repairman. Pliers are great for holding things and forming parts. Get a set of needle nose ones and some regular ones.

==Wrenches==

Many typewriters have nuts and bolts, along with screws. A good set of wrenches are essential for loosening these. The most common nut/bolt you will come across is 1/4”. An adjustable wrench is also good for those odd sizes you come across every now and again.

==Dental Picks==
Highly recommended; it is peerless when it comes to removing gunk from thin areas. One end may be bent into a hook to assist drawband pulling. 
Check your grocery or drug store's dental care area, or look for clay tools at a craft store. It's a good idea to have plastic tips as well as metal if you can find them.

'''Spring Hooks''' are similar to dental picks, but are specifically designed for attaching extension springs. Useful, but not essential. Most dental picks will do the same job.

==Brushes==
You will want at least a toothbrush. They come in various stiffness; a hard one is recommended. You can also use a brass brush on typeslugs and ''plain'' metal to remove rust. Do not use a metal brush on paint, chrome, or delicate areas. Straw cleaning brushes are useful for reaching parts deep inside your typewriter without having to take it apart, as well.

=Chemicals=
You want to use as little chemicals and oils as possible, but the most commonly used are below.

==Putty==
You can buy typeslug cleaning putty that can be used multiple times. Use it each time after you use your typewriter to keep the characters looking sharp. This putty will not remove old, caked on ink and dirt. Make sure you brush everything, first.

==Solvents, Scrubs, and Degreasers==
Solvents are commonly used to loosen caked on dirt, dust, and other gunk. Here are some common solvents and degreasers. Be careful with these as they are not good for paint or rubber and will also dissolve those. Do NOT EVER use these on decals.

* '''Isopropyl Alcohol''' - Alcohol is one of the less aggressive chemical solvents. It does not smell too harshly, and evaporates quickly. Isopropyl Alcohol is more accessible and less volatile.
* '''Mineral Spirits''' - Mineral Spirits are more volatile and aggressive than Isopropyl Alcohol. Be very careful with this, as the fumes are not good for your brain.
* '''Degreasers''' - There are various degreasers you can use. The most recommended are Mean Green, Purple Power, and Zep Orange. Once you have cleaned with these, you will need to flush the area with something like Isopropyl alcohol. Water can be used, as well, but make sure you get everything very dry.
* '''Dish Soap''' - A mild degreaser and surfactant, hand dish detergent is sometimes the best option. Try to avoid things with petroleum like Dawn. Use diluted in water with a damp cloth or toothbrush.
* '''Soft Scrub/Cif Cream Cleanser''' - Do not get the type with bleach in it! This can be used safely with a toothbrush on crinkle paint, the rough stuff from the late 40s through early 60s. Please test in an area that's not easily seen, first. Any problems with peeling paint will be made worse by scrubbing. This stuff is great for cleaning platens and making them a bit more grippy, too. Make sure you wipe it down well with a damp cloth a few times to get all residue off. Never use it on gloss paint!

==Penetrants==

These should not be used as oil, even if the package says you can. These include WD40, PB Blast, 3n1 Oil and the like. You will want something to free stuck screws. Drip some onto the screw head and let it penetrate into the threads. Don't spray it on your typewriter, as you'll have to clean it all off. Be patient and wait before trying to remove screws you haven't had out recently. It can be difficult to find proper replacements if you strip them.

==Oil==

The proper oil for typewriters is light machine oil. It's also used for sewing machines and guns, so you can use either of those.
Light machine oils include Rem-Oil, Hoppes 9, and even trumpet valve oil.

Despite popular belief in some places on the internet, oil is good for typewriters, in certain places. DO NOT OVER-OIL AND NEVER OIL DIRTY PARTS. Keep oil to places like carriage rails, carriage wheels, and the escapement. Sometimes the ribbon system, backspace, and tabulator mechanisms need oiling too. It is generally not recommended to oil the segment.

==Rust Removers==
=== Chemicals ===
* '''Do not put any of these on anything but bare metal.'''
* '''Evaporust''' - Nontoxic, water based, biodegradable, liquid. Apply with cotton swab.
* '''Naval Jelly''' - A bit toxic, use in a ventilated place, gel so it sticks on better. Apply with cotton swab or small paintbrush.
=== Physical ===
* '''Fine Wet-Sand''' - sandpaper or sponge meant to be used with water. This will keep dust down and quickly strips rust off things like rails.
* '''Emery Cloth''' - This is basically a very fine sandpaper. It's good for polishing. If you use wet sand, this should be your second step.
* '''Melamine Eraser''' - Works on surface rust, but takes a lot of elbow grease.
* '''Steel Wool''' - will leave shavings, so don't use on parts inside the machine without running a vacuum. Emery cloth is a better alternative.

==Waxes and Polishes==
* '''Carnauba Wax''' - Use pure carnauba wax to polish gloss painted areas. Rub on sparingly, allow to haze, buff off with clean soft cloth.
* '''Beeswax''' - Not for the lazy. Warm a small piece in your hand until it's pliable. "Write" on the paint, then buff in immediately with fast, strong strokes using cloth like an old t-shirt. Once none of the writing is visible, polish with soft cloth. If the surface feels slightly sticky, you didn't buff enough. It's a lot of work, but the advantage is a very smooth shine that's quite durable.
* '''Polishing Compound''' - Do not use this on paint. You can use it in places where you had to remove rust from bare metal to help smooth them out again.
* '''Rotary Tool Buffers''' - Some people like these and some do not. Be very gentle, and only use them on bare metal.

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2020-11-25T22:32:06Z

Ryanne:

Though typewriter repair may appear to be a dark art, requiring complicated and specialised tooling, most --if not all-- typewriter issues can be fixed with simple household materials and materials from the local hardware or surplus store. This is a list of common tools that you may encounter.

__TOC__

=Tools=

Tools are very important for getting inside your typewriter and for removing parts. Here are a few tools that should be included in every repairman's case.
==Screwdrivers==

You’ll want a nice set of screwdrivers. Long precision screwdrivers are very nice, and you’ll also want some with bigger handles for a better grip and for use with larger screws. Flat-head screwdrivers are most commonly used, you will rarely find any other kind of screw head. Holdy screwdrivers are also nice for driving hard-to-hold tiny screws. You can never have too many screwdrivers. 
Make sure you have screwdrivers that fit the head of the screw well. Any looseness can cause stripping.

==Pliers==

Another essential tool of a typewriter repairman. Pliers are great for holding things and forming parts. Get a set of needle nose ones and some regular ones.

==Wrenches==

Many typewriters have nuts and bolts, along with screws. A good set of wrenches are essential for loosening these. The most common nut/bolt you will come across is 1/4”. An adjustable wrench is also good for those odd sizes you come across every now and again.

==Dental Picks==
Highly recommended; it is peerless when it comes to removing gunk from thin areas. One end may be bent into a hook to assist drawband pulling. 
Check your grocery or drug store's dental care area, or look for clay tools at a craft store. It's a good idea to have plastic tips as well as metal if you can find them.

'''Spring Hooks''' are similar to dental picks, but are specifically designed for attaching extension springs. Useful, but not essential. Most dental picks will do the same job.

==Brushes==
You will want at least a toothbrush. They come in various stiffness; a hard one is recommended. You can also use a brass brush on typeslugs and ''plain'' metal to remove rust. Do not use a metal brush on paint, chrome, or delicate areas. Straw cleaning brushes are useful for reaching parts deep inside your typewriter without having to take it apart, as well.

=Chemicals=
You want to use as little chemicals and oils as possible, but the most commonly used are below.

==Putty==
You can buy typeslug cleaning putty that can be used multiple times. Use it each time after you use your typewriter to keep the characters looking sharp. This putty will not remove old, caked on ink and dirt. Make sure you brush everything, first.

==Solvents, Scrubs, and Degreasers==
Solvents are commonly used to loosen caked on dirt, dust, and other gunk. Here are some common solvents and degreasers. Be careful with these as they are not good for paint or rubber and will also dissolve those. Do NOT EVER use these on decals.

* '''Isopropyl Alcohol''' - Alcohol is one of the less aggressive chemical solvents. It does not smell too harshly, and evaporates quickly. Isopropyl Alcohol is more accessible and less volatile.
* '''Mineral Spirits''' - Mineral Spirits are more volatile and aggressive than Isopropyl Alcohol. Be very careful with this, as the fumes are not good for your brain.
* '''Degreasers''' - There are various degreasers you can use. The most recommended are Mean Green, Purple Power, and Zep Orange. Once you have cleaned with these, you will need to flush the area with something like Isopropyl alcohol. Water can be used, as well, but make sure you get everything very dry.
* '''Dish Soap''' - A mild degreaser and surfactant, hand dish detergent is sometimes the best option. Try to avoid things with petroleum like Dawn. Use diluted in water with a damp cloth or toothbrush.
* '''Soft Scrub/Cif Cream Cleanser''' - Do not get the type with bleach in it! This can be used safely with a toothbrush on crinkle paint, the rough stuff from the late 40s through early 60s. Please test in an area that's not easily seen, first. Any problems with peeling paint will be made worse by scrubbing. This stuff is great for cleaning platens and making them a bit more grippy, too. Make sure you wipe it down well with a damp cloth a few times to get all residue off. Never use it on gloss paint!

==Penetrants==

These should not be used as oil, even if the package says you can. These include WD40, PB Blast, 3n1 Oil and the like. You will want something to free stuck screws. Drip some onto the screw head and let it penetrate into the threads. Don't spray it on your typewriter, as you'll have to clean it all off. Be patient and wait before trying to remove screws you haven't had out recently. It can be difficult to find proper replacements if you strip them.

==Oil==

The proper oil for typewriters is light machine oil. It's also used for sewing machines and guns, so you can use either of those.
Light machine oils include Rem-Oil, Hoppes 9, and even trumpet valve oil.

Despite popular belief in some places on the internet, oil is good for typewriters, in certain places. DO NOT OVER-OIL AND NEVER OIL DIRTY PARTS. Keep oil to places like carriage rails, carriage wheels, and the escapement. Sometimes the ribbon system, backspace, and tabulator mechanisms need oiling too. It is generally not recommended to oil the segment.

==Rust Removers==
=== Chemicals ===
* '''Do not put any of these on anything but bare metal.'''
* '''Evaporust''' - Nontoxic, water based, biodegradable, liquid. Apply with cotton swab.
* '''Naval Jelly''' - A bit toxic, use in a ventilated place, gel so it sticks on better. Apply with cotton swab or small paintbrush.
=== Physical ===
* '''Fine Wet-Sand''' - sandpaper or sponge meant to be used with water. This will keep dust down and quickly strips rust off things like rails.
* '''Emery Cloth''' - This is basically a very fine sandpaper. It's good for polishing. If you use wet sand, this should be your second step.
* '''Melamine Eraser''' - Works on surface rust, but takes a lot of elbow grease.
* '''Steel Wool''' - will leave shavings, so don't use on parts inside the machine without running a vacuum. Emery cloth is a better alternative.

==Waxes and Polishes==
* Carnauba Wax - Use pure carnauba wax to polish gloss painted areas. Rub on sparingly, allow to haze, buff off with clean soft cloth.
* Beeswax - Not for the lazy. Warm a small piece in your hand until it's pliable. "Write" on the paint, then buff in immediately with fast, strong strokes using cloth like an old t-shirt. Once none of the writing is visible, polish with soft cloth. If the surface feels slightly sticky, you didn't buff enough. It's a lot of work, but the advantage is a very smooth shine that's quite durable.
* Polishing Compound - Do not use this on paint. You can use it in places where you had to remove rust from bare metal to help smooth them out again.
* Rotary Tool Buffers - Some people like these and some do not. Be very gentle, and only use them on bare metal.

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2020-11-25T22:27:51Z

Ryanne: /* Rust Removers */

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2020-11-25T22:26:51Z

Ryanne: /* Rust Removers */

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2020-11-25T22:15:54Z

Ryanne:

Typewriter Cleaning and Cleanliness

2020-11-25T22:14:16Z

Ryanne: /* Keeping your Typewriter Clean and Healthy */

__TOC__
=Overview=
Cleaning a dirty typewriter and keeping a clean typewriter are essential to putting machines into good condition and keeping them there. This guide will go over cleaning a newly found/bought typewriter, and tips to keep your currently cleaned typewriter clean.
=!WARNING!=
USE EXTREME CAUTION AROUND DECALS. Usually it is best to not clean these and leave them alone. You might try dusting them off gently. But NEVER touch these with ANY kind of solvent or degreaser. Replacement decals can be bought, but you can't truly replace an original. Most paint is also very sensitive to degreasers and solvents as well, so '''use caution'''. If you absolutely have to use a degreaser or solvent, always test it in an inconspicuous corner of the typewriter. Use these chemicals as a last resort.

<gallery>
Royal KHM Damaged Decal.jpg|thumb|A KHM with a damaged Royal decal after being dabbed with Mean Green (a degreaser) on a cotton ball
</gallery>

=Deep Cleaning and Touching Up=
Your typewriter will most likely have been collecting dust, dirt, and other grime for 40 years or more. Take these steps to give it a good deep clean.

==Blowing Out==
The first step usually taken is to blow the typewriter out to get all sorts of loose dust and other particles out of the machine. Use canned air or an air compressor (the latter is recommended) to gently blow in and around the machine. This is best done outside, and with the panels off of the machine to allow for the maximum reach inside the machine.

== Dusting without compressed air ==

An air compressor can send piece of your typewriter flying if they're not secure, so some prefer a low powered vacuum with a dust cup with filter. There are ones for cleaning electronics/keyboards that can serve this purpose. Others used canned air or low pressure compressors.

A detailing brush with a small handheld vacuum like the one described above can be effective at removing hair and other debris. Other tools one might use are a dental pick, a paint brush, and pipe/straw cleaners (single use or reusable, hard and soft). Using tools can be more effective than canned air at times.

==Cleaning Paint, Stains, and Patches of Dirt ==
Paint is best cleaned by spraying WD-40 onto a rag and wiping down the typewriter. Be VERY gentle around decals (try to avoid them) and DON'T get any WD-40 inside the machine. It reacts very badly with dirt and gums up very easily and is hard to get out. Patches of dirt can be rubbed off with a damp rag or paper towel.

=== Cleaning Crinkle Paint ===

Clean with WD-40 and a toothbrush. Per usual, make sure to keep WD-40 stays away from the innards. Exclusively apply it to the panels Avoid any decals and painted lettering/details. Wipe off with a dry rag to absorb it. WD-40 is hydrophobic so if you use a wet rag it won’t soak up.

==Removing Dirt and Dust Inside==
Any dust not vacuumed up should be dissolved with some sort of degreaser (like Isopropyl Alcohol or Mineral Spirits) and wiped out. Be sure to keep the degreaser away from paint or rubber.

A blunt tipped syringe or pipette is really useful to get cleaner into small, out of the way places. It also makes controlling how much you use a lot easier.

==White Residue on 50's plastic keys==

White powder on 1950s and later plastic keys is a result of a chemical process known as degassing and a result of decomposition in the plastic itself. It can be removed with vigorous dry rubbing, with bare fingers or gently with a Scotch Brite pad. Some say that WD-40 on your fingers may help. Do a couple now, do something else, do a couple more. You might get blisters. Have fun!

==Flushing the Segment==
Sometimes, the segment of your machine can be gummy, from built up dust. ”Flushing” the segment removes that dust. First, get some sort of degreaser. Use a pipet or a q tip to squish your degreasing solution at the base of the type bar. Then, move the type bar up and down quickly a few times. No need to go all the way up or down. You are just working the degreaser in. Finally, blow the base of the typebar you just worked out with compressed or canned air. The typebar and key should move freely now. Sometimes you have to do multiple treatments. If it still doesn’t work, try moving the typebar without putting degreaser in first. Sometimes you just have to work it loose.

==Removing Rust==
Rust can be removed with either a rust remover solution or a brass brush. I recommend Evaporust for rust remover. You'll want to take the part/assembly completely apart first, and soak it until it's not rusty anymore. Brass brushes are good for brushing off rust in patches or mechanisms you don't want to take apart.

==Touching Up Paint==
Little paint touch-up spots can be fixed with modeling paint (usually gloss black) and a small detailing paintbrush. For small small spots, a Sharpie even works. Black nail polish also works well, and doesn't create the slightly red sheen that a sharpie does. You can buy in in a marker/pen form.
<gallery>
File:Royal KMM Badge touch up.jpg|thumb|A Royal KMM badge touched up with black and silver Sharpie
</gallery>

=Keeping your Typewriter Clean and Healthy=
After you've given your machine a deep clean, you'll probably want it to stay that way. Dust buildup can be prevented by:
* Keeping your machine covered with a dust cover or in its case
** Tip: you can use a towel, pillowcase, or sheet of vinyl as a dust cover. They don't have to be fancy.
** Even an old cardboard box flipped upside down works.
** Even with a cover, some dust will get in.
* Storing it in a clean environment
* Blowing it out every once in awhile to prevent a build up of dust

Don’t forget to check your manual for oiling advice. It's best to oil carriage rails and the escapement (if you can reach it) almost always, and a manual will pinpoint specific oiling points.

Typewriter Cleaning and Cleanliness

2020-11-25T22:10:13Z

Ryanne: /* Touching Up Paint */

__TOC__
=Overview=
Cleaning a dirty typewriter and keeping a clean typewriter are essential to putting machines into good condition and keeping them there. This guide will go over cleaning a newly found/bought typewriter, and tips to keep your currently cleaned typewriter clean.
=!WARNING!=
USE EXTREME CAUTION AROUND DECALS. Usually it is best to not clean these and leave them alone. You might try dusting them off gently. But NEVER touch these with ANY kind of solvent or degreaser. Replacement decals can be bought, but you can't truly replace an original. Most paint is also very sensitive to degreasers and solvents as well, so '''use caution'''. If you absolutely have to use a degreaser or solvent, always test it in an inconspicuous corner of the typewriter. Use these chemicals as a last resort.

<gallery>
Royal KHM Damaged Decal.jpg|thumb|A KHM with a damaged Royal decal after being dabbed with Mean Green (a degreaser) on a cotton ball
</gallery>

=Deep Cleaning and Touching Up=
Your typewriter will most likely have been collecting dust, dirt, and other grime for 40 years or more. Take these steps to give it a good deep clean.

==Blowing Out==
The first step usually taken is to blow the typewriter out to get all sorts of loose dust and other particles out of the machine. Use canned air or an air compressor (the latter is recommended) to gently blow in and around the machine. This is best done outside, and with the panels off of the machine to allow for the maximum reach inside the machine.

== Dusting without compressed air ==

An air compressor can send piece of your typewriter flying if they're not secure, so some prefer a low powered vacuum with a dust cup with filter. There are ones for cleaning electronics/keyboards that can serve this purpose. Others used canned air or low pressure compressors.

A detailing brush with a small handheld vacuum like the one described above can be effective at removing hair and other debris. Other tools one might use are a dental pick, a paint brush, and pipe/straw cleaners (single use or reusable, hard and soft). Using tools can be more effective than canned air at times.

==Cleaning Paint, Stains, and Patches of Dirt ==
Paint is best cleaned by spraying WD-40 onto a rag and wiping down the typewriter. Be VERY gentle around decals (try to avoid them) and DON'T get any WD-40 inside the machine. It reacts very badly with dirt and gums up very easily and is hard to get out. Patches of dirt can be rubbed off with a damp rag or paper towel.

=== Cleaning Crinkle Paint ===

Clean with WD-40 and a toothbrush. Per usual, make sure to keep WD-40 stays away from the innards. Exclusively apply it to the panels Avoid any decals and painted lettering/details. Wipe off with a dry rag to absorb it. WD-40 is hydrophobic so if you use a wet rag it won’t soak up.

==Removing Dirt and Dust Inside==
Any dust not vacuumed up should be dissolved with some sort of degreaser (like Isopropyl Alcohol or Mineral Spirits) and wiped out. Be sure to keep the degreaser away from paint or rubber.

A blunt tipped syringe or pipette is really useful to get cleaner into small, out of the way places. It also makes controlling how much you use a lot easier.

==White Residue on 50's plastic keys==

White powder on 1950s and later plastic keys is a result of a chemical process known as degassing and a result of decomposition in the plastic itself. It can be removed with vigorous dry rubbing, with bare fingers or gently with a Scotch Brite pad. Some say that WD-40 on your fingers may help. Do a couple now, do something else, do a couple more. You might get blisters. Have fun!

==Flushing the Segment==
Sometimes, the segment of your machine can be gummy, from built up dust. ”Flushing” the segment removes that dust. First, get some sort of degreaser. Use a pipet or a q tip to squish your degreasing solution at the base of the type bar. Then, move the type bar up and down quickly a few times. No need to go all the way up or down. You are just working the degreaser in. Finally, blow the base of the typebar you just worked out with compressed or canned air. The typebar and key should move freely now. Sometimes you have to do multiple treatments. If it still doesn’t work, try moving the typebar without putting degreaser in first. Sometimes you just have to work it loose.

==Removing Rust==
Rust can be removed with either a rust remover solution or a brass brush. I recommend Evaporust for rust remover. You'll want to take the part/assembly completely apart first, and soak it until it's not rusty anymore. Brass brushes are good for brushing off rust in patches or mechanisms you don't want to take apart.

==Touching Up Paint==
Little paint touch-up spots can be fixed with modeling paint (usually gloss black) and a small detailing paintbrush. For small small spots, a Sharpie even works. Black nail polish also works well, and doesn't create the slightly red sheen that a sharpie does. You can buy in in a marker/pen form.
<gallery>
File:Royal KMM Badge touch up.jpg|thumb|A Royal KMM badge touched up with black and silver Sharpie
</gallery>

=Keeping your Typewriter Clean and Healthy=
After you've given your machine a deep clean, you'll probably want it to stay that way. Dust buildup can be prevented by:
*Keeping your machine covered with a dust cover or in it's case
*Storing it in a clean environment
*Blowing it out every once in awhile to prevent a build up of dust

Don’t forget to check your manual for oiling advice. It's best to oil carriage rails and the escapement (if you can reach it) almost always, and a manual will pinpoint specific oiling points.

Typewriter Cleaning and Cleanliness

2020-11-25T22:09:25Z

Ryanne: /* Removing Dirt and Dust Inside */

__TOC__
=Overview=
Cleaning a dirty typewriter and keeping a clean typewriter are essential to putting machines into good condition and keeping them there. This guide will go over cleaning a newly found/bought typewriter, and tips to keep your currently cleaned typewriter clean.
=!WARNING!=
USE EXTREME CAUTION AROUND DECALS. Usually it is best to not clean these and leave them alone. You might try dusting them off gently. But NEVER touch these with ANY kind of solvent or degreaser. Replacement decals can be bought, but you can't truly replace an original. Most paint is also very sensitive to degreasers and solvents as well, so '''use caution'''. If you absolutely have to use a degreaser or solvent, always test it in an inconspicuous corner of the typewriter. Use these chemicals as a last resort.

<gallery>
Royal KHM Damaged Decal.jpg|thumb|A KHM with a damaged Royal decal after being dabbed with Mean Green (a degreaser) on a cotton ball
</gallery>

=Deep Cleaning and Touching Up=
Your typewriter will most likely have been collecting dust, dirt, and other grime for 40 years or more. Take these steps to give it a good deep clean.

==Blowing Out==
The first step usually taken is to blow the typewriter out to get all sorts of loose dust and other particles out of the machine. Use canned air or an air compressor (the latter is recommended) to gently blow in and around the machine. This is best done outside, and with the panels off of the machine to allow for the maximum reach inside the machine.

== Dusting without compressed air ==

An air compressor can send piece of your typewriter flying if they're not secure, so some prefer a low powered vacuum with a dust cup with filter. There are ones for cleaning electronics/keyboards that can serve this purpose. Others used canned air or low pressure compressors.

A detailing brush with a small handheld vacuum like the one described above can be effective at removing hair and other debris. Other tools one might use are a dental pick, a paint brush, and pipe/straw cleaners (single use or reusable, hard and soft). Using tools can be more effective than canned air at times.

==Cleaning Paint, Stains, and Patches of Dirt ==
Paint is best cleaned by spraying WD-40 onto a rag and wiping down the typewriter. Be VERY gentle around decals (try to avoid them) and DON'T get any WD-40 inside the machine. It reacts very badly with dirt and gums up very easily and is hard to get out. Patches of dirt can be rubbed off with a damp rag or paper towel.

=== Cleaning Crinkle Paint ===

Clean with WD-40 and a toothbrush. Per usual, make sure to keep WD-40 stays away from the innards. Exclusively apply it to the panels Avoid any decals and painted lettering/details. Wipe off with a dry rag to absorb it. WD-40 is hydrophobic so if you use a wet rag it won’t soak up.

==Removing Dirt and Dust Inside==
Any dust not vacuumed up should be dissolved with some sort of degreaser (like Isopropyl Alcohol or Mineral Spirits) and wiped out. Be sure to keep the degreaser away from paint or rubber.

A blunt tipped syringe or pipette is really useful to get cleaner into small, out of the way places. It also makes controlling how much you use a lot easier.

==White Residue on 50's plastic keys==

White powder on 1950s and later plastic keys is a result of a chemical process known as degassing and a result of decomposition in the plastic itself. It can be removed with vigorous dry rubbing, with bare fingers or gently with a Scotch Brite pad. Some say that WD-40 on your fingers may help. Do a couple now, do something else, do a couple more. You might get blisters. Have fun!

==Flushing the Segment==
Sometimes, the segment of your machine can be gummy, from built up dust. ”Flushing” the segment removes that dust. First, get some sort of degreaser. Use a pipet or a q tip to squish your degreasing solution at the base of the type bar. Then, move the type bar up and down quickly a few times. No need to go all the way up or down. You are just working the degreaser in. Finally, blow the base of the typebar you just worked out with compressed or canned air. The typebar and key should move freely now. Sometimes you have to do multiple treatments. If it still doesn’t work, try moving the typebar without putting degreaser in first. Sometimes you just have to work it loose.

==Removing Rust==
Rust can be removed with either a rust remover solution or a brass brush. I recommend Evaporust for rust remover. You'll want to take the part/assembly completely apart first, and soak it until it's not rusty anymore. Brass brushes are good for brushing off rust in patches or mechanisms you don't want to take apart.

==Touching Up Paint==
Little paint touch-up spots can be fixed with modeling paint (usually gloss black) and a small detailing paintbrush. For small small spots, a Sharpie even works.
<gallery>
File:Royal KMM Badge touch up.jpg|thumb|A Royal KMM badge touched up with black and silver Sharpie
</gallery>

=Keeping your Typewriter Clean and Healthy=
After you've given your machine a deep clean, you'll probably want it to stay that way. Dust buildup can be prevented by:
*Keeping your machine covered with a dust cover or in it's case
*Storing it in a clean environment
*Blowing it out every once in awhile to prevent a build up of dust

Don’t forget to check your manual for oiling advice. It's best to oil carriage rails and the escapement (if you can reach it) almost always, and a manual will pinpoint specific oiling points.

Typewriter Cleaning and Cleanliness

2020-11-25T22:06:28Z

Ryanne: /* Blowing Out */

__TOC__
=Overview=
Cleaning a dirty typewriter and keeping a clean typewriter are essential to putting machines into good condition and keeping them there. This guide will go over cleaning a newly found/bought typewriter, and tips to keep your currently cleaned typewriter clean.
=!WARNING!=
USE EXTREME CAUTION AROUND DECALS. Usually it is best to not clean these and leave them alone. You might try dusting them off gently. But NEVER touch these with ANY kind of solvent or degreaser. Replacement decals can be bought, but you can't truly replace an original. Most paint is also very sensitive to degreasers and solvents as well, so '''use caution'''. If you absolutely have to use a degreaser or solvent, always test it in an inconspicuous corner of the typewriter. Use these chemicals as a last resort.

<gallery>
Royal KHM Damaged Decal.jpg|thumb|A KHM with a damaged Royal decal after being dabbed with Mean Green (a degreaser) on a cotton ball
</gallery>

=Deep Cleaning and Touching Up=
Your typewriter will most likely have been collecting dust, dirt, and other grime for 40 years or more. Take these steps to give it a good deep clean.

==Blowing Out==
The first step usually taken is to blow the typewriter out to get all sorts of loose dust and other particles out of the machine. Use canned air or an air compressor (the latter is recommended) to gently blow in and around the machine. This is best done outside, and with the panels off of the machine to allow for the maximum reach inside the machine.

== Dusting without compressed air ==

An air compressor can send piece of your typewriter flying if they're not secure, so some prefer a low powered vacuum with a dust cup with filter. There are ones for cleaning electronics/keyboards that can serve this purpose. Others used canned air or low pressure compressors.

A detailing brush with a small handheld vacuum like the one described above can be effective at removing hair and other debris. Other tools one might use are a dental pick, a paint brush, and pipe/straw cleaners (single use or reusable, hard and soft). Using tools can be more effective than canned air at times.

==Cleaning Paint, Stains, and Patches of Dirt ==
Paint is best cleaned by spraying WD-40 onto a rag and wiping down the typewriter. Be VERY gentle around decals (try to avoid them) and DON'T get any WD-40 inside the machine. It reacts very badly with dirt and gums up very easily and is hard to get out. Patches of dirt can be rubbed off with a damp rag or paper towel.

=== Cleaning Crinkle Paint ===

Clean with WD-40 and a toothbrush. Per usual, make sure to keep WD-40 stays away from the innards. Exclusively apply it to the panels Avoid any decals and painted lettering/details. Wipe off with a dry rag to absorb it. WD-40 is hydrophobic so if you use a wet rag it won’t soak up.

==Removing Dirt and Dust Inside==
Any dust not vacuumed up should be dissolved with some sort of degreaser (like Isopropyl Alcohol or Mineral Spirits) and wipes out. Be sure to keep the degreaser away from paint or rubber.

==White Residue on 50's plastic keys==

White powder on 1950s and later plastic keys is a result of a chemical process known as degassing and a result of decomposition in the plastic itself. It can be removed with vigorous dry rubbing, with bare fingers or gently with a Scotch Brite pad. Some say that WD-40 on your fingers may help. Do a couple now, do something else, do a couple more. You might get blisters. Have fun!

==Flushing the Segment==
Sometimes, the segment of your machine can be gummy, from built up dust. ”Flushing” the segment removes that dust. First, get some sort of degreaser. Use a pipet or a q tip to squish your degreasing solution at the base of the type bar. Then, move the type bar up and down quickly a few times. No need to go all the way up or down. You are just working the degreaser in. Finally, blow the base of the typebar you just worked out with compressed or canned air. The typebar and key should move freely now. Sometimes you have to do multiple treatments. If it still doesn’t work, try moving the typebar without putting degreaser in first. Sometimes you just have to work it loose.

==Removing Rust==
Rust can be removed with either a rust remover solution or a brass brush. I recommend Evaporust for rust remover. You'll want to take the part/assembly completely apart first, and soak it until it's not rusty anymore. Brass brushes are good for brushing off rust in patches or mechanisms you don't want to take apart.

==Touching Up Paint==
Little paint touch-up spots can be fixed with modeling paint (usually gloss black) and a small detailing paintbrush. For small small spots, a Sharpie even works.
<gallery>
File:Royal KMM Badge touch up.jpg|thumb|A Royal KMM badge touched up with black and silver Sharpie
</gallery>

=Keeping your Typewriter Clean and Healthy=
After you've given your machine a deep clean, you'll probably want it to stay that way. Dust buildup can be prevented by:
*Keeping your machine covered with a dust cover or in it's case
*Storing it in a clean environment
*Blowing it out every once in awhile to prevent a build up of dust

Don’t forget to check your manual for oiling advice. It's best to oil carriage rails and the escapement (if you can reach it) almost always, and a manual will pinpoint specific oiling points.

Typewriter Cleaning and Cleanliness

2020-11-25T22:05:35Z

Ryanne: /* !WARNING! */

__TOC__
=Overview=
Cleaning a dirty typewriter and keeping a clean typewriter are essential to putting machines into good condition and keeping them there. This guide will go over cleaning a newly found/bought typewriter, and tips to keep your currently cleaned typewriter clean.
=!WARNING!=
USE EXTREME CAUTION AROUND DECALS. Usually it is best to not clean these and leave them alone. You might try dusting them off gently. But NEVER touch these with ANY kind of solvent or degreaser. Replacement decals can be bought, but you can't truly replace an original. Most paint is also very sensitive to degreasers and solvents as well, so '''use caution'''. If you absolutely have to use a degreaser or solvent, always test it in an inconspicuous corner of the typewriter. Use these chemicals as a last resort.

<gallery>
Royal KHM Damaged Decal.jpg|thumb|A KHM with a damaged Royal decal after being dabbed with Mean Green (a degreaser) on a cotton ball
</gallery>

=Deep Cleaning and Touching Up=
Your typewriter will most likely have been collecting dust, dirt, and other grime for 40 years or more. Take these steps to give it a good deep clean.

==Blowing Out==
The first step usually taken is to blow the typewriter out to get all sorts of loose dust and other particles out of the machine. Use canned air or an air compressor (the latter is recommended) to gently blow in and around the machine. This is best done outside, and with the panels off of the machine to allow for the maximum reach inside the machine. A small detailing brush paired with a vacuum cleaner will work wonders.

== Dusting without compressed air ==

An air compressor can send piece of your typewriter flying if they're not secure, so some prefer a low powered vacuum with a dust cup with filter. There are ones for cleaning electronics/keyboards that can serve this purpose. Others used canned air or low pressure compressors.

A detailing brush with a small handheld vacuum like the one described above can be effective at removing hair and other debris. Other tools one might use are a dental pick, a paint brush, and pipe/straw cleaners (single use or reusable, hard and soft). Using tools can be more effective than canned air at times.

==Cleaning Paint, Stains, and Patches of Dirt ==
Paint is best cleaned by spraying WD-40 onto a rag and wiping down the typewriter. Be VERY gentle around decals (try to avoid them) and DON'T get any WD-40 inside the machine. It reacts very badly with dirt and gums up very easily and is hard to get out. Patches of dirt can be rubbed off with a damp rag or paper towel.

=== Cleaning Crinkle Paint ===

Clean with WD-40 and a toothbrush. Per usual, make sure to keep WD-40 stays away from the innards. Exclusively apply it to the panels Avoid any decals and painted lettering/details. Wipe off with a dry rag to absorb it. WD-40 is hydrophobic so if you use a wet rag it won’t soak up.

==Removing Dirt and Dust Inside==
Any dust not vacuumed up should be dissolved with some sort of degreaser (like Isopropyl Alcohol or Mineral Spirits) and wipes out. Be sure to keep the degreaser away from paint or rubber.

==White Residue on 50's plastic keys==

White powder on 1950s and later plastic keys is a result of a chemical process known as degassing and a result of decomposition in the plastic itself. It can be removed with vigorous dry rubbing, with bare fingers or gently with a Scotch Brite pad. Some say that WD-40 on your fingers may help. Do a couple now, do something else, do a couple more. You might get blisters. Have fun!

==Flushing the Segment==
Sometimes, the segment of your machine can be gummy, from built up dust. ”Flushing” the segment removes that dust. First, get some sort of degreaser. Use a pipet or a q tip to squish your degreasing solution at the base of the type bar. Then, move the type bar up and down quickly a few times. No need to go all the way up or down. You are just working the degreaser in. Finally, blow the base of the typebar you just worked out with compressed or canned air. The typebar and key should move freely now. Sometimes you have to do multiple treatments. If it still doesn’t work, try moving the typebar without putting degreaser in first. Sometimes you just have to work it loose.

==Removing Rust==
Rust can be removed with either a rust remover solution or a brass brush. I recommend Evaporust for rust remover. You'll want to take the part/assembly completely apart first, and soak it until it's not rusty anymore. Brass brushes are good for brushing off rust in patches or mechanisms you don't want to take apart.

==Touching Up Paint==
Little paint touch-up spots can be fixed with modeling paint (usually gloss black) and a small detailing paintbrush. For small small spots, a Sharpie even works.
<gallery>
File:Royal KMM Badge touch up.jpg|thumb|A Royal KMM badge touched up with black and silver Sharpie
</gallery>

=Keeping your Typewriter Clean and Healthy=
After you've given your machine a deep clean, you'll probably want it to stay that way. Dust buildup can be prevented by:
*Keeping your machine covered with a dust cover or in it's case
*Storing it in a clean environment
*Blowing it out every once in awhile to prevent a build up of dust

Don’t forget to check your manual for oiling advice. It's best to oil carriage rails and the escapement (if you can reach it) almost always, and a manual will pinpoint specific oiling points.

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2020-11-25T22:03:44Z

Ryanne: /* Tools */

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2020-11-25T22:02:01Z

Ryanne:

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2020-11-25T21:59:49Z

Ryanne: /* Tools */

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2020-11-25T21:57:43Z

Ryanne: /* Lubricants */

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2020-11-25T19:43:45Z

Ryanne: /* Oil */

Common tools, solvents, chemicals, and their Uses

2020-11-25T19:42:16Z

Ryanne: /* Solvents and Degreasers */