__TOC__

=What are Rebuilt Typewriters?=
"Rebuilding" is the process of taking something, like a typewriter or another mechanical object, and tearing it down so that it can be fixed, cleaned, and readjusted, and finally reassembling it. Because typewriters were used heavily in offices, they required this process intermittently. Heavy daily use on a precision machine takes it's toll, so typewriter companies and typewriter shops offered rebuilding services to give tired typewriters a facelift and address any chronic issues that may be caused by worn out parts. Often times this process involved a total or partial tear down of the typewriter, new paint, and sometimes even new features that could be easily added (e.g. key set tabulator, new keys, or new type slugs).

==Who rebuilt typewriters?==
Typewriters were rebuilt by the factories that made them or small, independent repair shops. You can tell if a machine was rebuilt by a factory by looking for a rebuild decal. Often times, big companies would stick a sticker or a decal that showed if a machine was rebuilt. Occasionally, you can find a new serial number on the machine as well, stamped in the same place as the old one. Two big companies that rebuilt machines were Remington and Woodstock. Remington often rebuilt [[Remington Standard No. 10]]s and it's derivatives, stamped them with a new serial number, and put a "Rebuilt by Remington Typewriter Co., Ilion NY" decal on the back frame. Woodstock survived the great depression by rebuilding typewriters instead of manufacturing new ones. These machines are usually Woodstock 5s and 5Ns from the 20's. Rebuilt Woodstock machines are characterized by a friction-fit cover placed over the type basket and under the ribbon spool towers, and a (easily destroyed) yellow sticker on the back left of the frame that says, "Rebuilt by Woodstock Typewriter Co. Chicago, IL" on it. Typewriters that were rebuilt by independent shops, on the other hand, are often just given a new coat of paint, new decals, and new keys with the dealer tag of the shop secured somewhere on the machine, usually in a very visible place. Each shop had a different process, so rebuilt machines by repair shops vary from place to place.

==How can I tell if my typewriter is rebuilt?==
The best way to know if a typewriter was rebuilt is to know what different machines looked like fresh out of the factory. Usually, rebuilt machines are from the 20's to the 40's, because rebuilding became big during the Great Depression and WWII as it was much cheaper than buying a new typewriter. Rebuilt typewriters come in many colors and configurations. Sometimes it is obvious, sometimes it is not. The most subtle rebuilds are machines that were not repainted and just had their typeface and keys replaced. Other times, (mostly independent shops) would repaint the machine in a new color not offered in the factory (like crinkle beige or black) and apply very generic-looking decals to replace the ones painted over.

==Are rebuilt machines bad?==
Certainly not! However, rebuilt machines are not usually desirable by collectors because they were altered from their original look. Some people think that the keys don't look right because they were changed out, or maybe the machine is the wrong color and missing the original decals. Rebuilt machines are the same quality as most other typewriters, so if you find one you like don't shy away because it was rebuilt!

Rebuilt Typewriters

2022-03-09T18:31:11Z

SpinierPigeon: /* Who rebuilt typewriters */

Rebuilt Typewriters

2022-03-09T18:31:00Z

SpinierPigeon: /* Who rebuilt typewriters */

__TOC__

=What are Rebuilt Typewriters?=
"Rebuilding" is the process of taking something, like a typewriter or another mechanical object, and tearing it down so that it can be fixed, cleaned, and readjusted, and finally reassembling it. Because typewriters were used heavily in offices, they required this process intermittently. Heavy daily use on a precision machine takes it's toll, so typewriter companies and typewriter shops offered rebuilding services to give tired typewriters a facelift and address any chronic issues that may be caused by worn out parts. Often times this process involved a total or partial tear down of the typewriter, new paint, and sometimes even new features that could be easily added (e.g. key set tabulator, new keys, or new type slugs).

==Who rebuilt typewriters==
Typewriters were rebuilt by the factories that made them or small, independent repair shops. You can tell if a machine was rebuilt by a factory by looking for a rebuild decal. Often times, big companies would stick a sticker or a decal that showed if a machine was rebuilt. Occasionally, you can find a new serial number on the machine as well, stamped in the same place as the old one. Two big companies that rebuilt machines were Remington and Woodstock. Remington often rebuilt [[Remington Standard No. 10]]s and it's derivatives, stamped them with a new serial number, and put a "Rebuilt by Remington Typewriter Co., Ilion NY" decal on the back frame. Woodstock survived the great depression by rebuilding typewriters instead of manufacturing new ones. These machines are usually Woodstock 5s and 5Ns from the 20's. Rebuilt Woodstock machines are characterized by a friction-fit cover placed over the type basket and under the ribbon spool towers, and a (easily destroyed) yellow sticker on the back left of the frame that says, "Rebuilt by Woodstock Typewriter Co. Chicago, IL" on it. Typewriters that were rebuilt by independent shops, on the other hand, are often just given a new coat of paint, new decals, and new keys with the dealer tag of the shop secured somewhere on the machine, usually in a very visible place. Each shop had a different process, so rebuilt machines by repair shops vary from place to place.

==How can I tell if my typewriter is rebuilt?==
The best way to know if a typewriter was rebuilt is to know what different machines looked like fresh out of the factory. Usually, rebuilt machines are from the 20's to the 40's, because rebuilding became big during the Great Depression and WWII as it was much cheaper than buying a new typewriter. Rebuilt typewriters come in many colors and configurations. Sometimes it is obvious, sometimes it is not. The most subtle rebuilds are machines that were not repainted and just had their typeface and keys replaced. Other times, (mostly independent shops) would repaint the machine in a new color not offered in the factory (like crinkle beige or black) and apply very generic-looking decals to replace the ones painted over.

==Are rebuilt machines bad?==
Certainly not! However, rebuilt machines are not usually desirable by collectors because they were altered from their original look. Some people think that the keys don't look right because they were changed out, or maybe the machine is the wrong color.

Remington

2022-03-09T18:27:58Z

SpinierPigeon: /* Notes */

[[Category: Typewriter Brands]]

Remington, also known as Sholes and Glidden, Sperry-Rand Remington and Remington - Torpedo, was the first group of people to produce a widely marketed and mass-produced type-writing machine. The company grew to be one of the largest manufacturers of typewriters ever.

== '''History''' ==

===As Sholes and Glidden===
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===As Remington===

more flavourtext

===Torpedo Merger===

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===Sperry-Rand Merger===

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=="Remington Typewriters"==

== Standards ==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Name !! Date Range !! Description & Rarity !! -
|-
| [[Remington Standard No. 1/ Sholes & Glidden]] || 1880 - 1886 || The Remington Standard No. 1/ Sholes & Glidden Typewriter is recognized as the first commercially successful typewriter. It was prototyped by Christopher Latham Sholes in Milwaukee in the late 1870's, and was presented to Remington Arms Co. for manufactering. At first, it was more of a novelty, but it set the precedent of what a typewriter should look like, and began the long legacy of the QWERTY keyboard. These machines are generally considered very rare, but they are around. || -
|-
| [[Remington Standard No. 2, No. 3, & No.4]] || 1880 - 1886 || The Remington Standard No. 2 is the improved version of the No. 1. These machines are much less ornate and a bit more refined, featuring a shift key allowing the operator to type in capital and lowercase letters. The Remington Standard No. 3 is a wide carriage model of the No. 2, but was only developed as a prototype and never widely manufactured. The Remington Standard No. 4 is the economy model of the No. 2. It is basically the same machine without any shift keys. || -
|-
| [[Remington Standard No. 5]] || 1886 - 1898 || The Remington Standard No. 5 is the version of the Remington Standard No. 3 built for the European market. It has a slightly shorter carriage, and a bell located on the front of the typewriter instead of on the back. || -
|-
| [[Remington Standard No. 6, No.7, No.8, & No.9]] || 1894 - 1914 || The Remington Standards No. 6, 7, & 8 are the most widely available Remington upstrike typewriters available today. The Remington Standard No. 6 is the improved version of the No. 5, the 7 is a version of the 6 with more keys, and the 8 is the wide carriage version of the 7. The No. 9 is a 7 with a decimal tabulator. || -
|-
| [[Remington Standard No. 10]] || 1908 - 1923 || The Remington Standard No. 10 is the first visible frontstroke Remington typewriter available on the market. They are relatively common. || -
|-
| [[Remington Standard No. 11, No. 12, No. 20, No. 30, No. 31, No. 92]] || 1922 - || The No. 11 is a 10 with a decimal tabulator, the No. 12 is an improved 10 with covers over the sides, the 20 is the "Remington Special", the 30 is a 12 with a decimal tab, the 31 is a 12 with an extended decimal tab and extra keys, and we don't know what makes the 92 special || -
|-
| [[Remington 16]] || 1931 - 1943 || The Remington 16 is the successor to the 12 and all it's derivatives. These machines are fairly common. || -
|-
| [[Remington 17/KMC]] || 1939 - 1950 || The Remington KMC is the 1940's redesign of the Remington Standard. Crinkle paint came into style and was used to full effect, and keyboard set margins (hence the acronym "KMC") were introduced to simplify the setting of margins on the machine. These machines are fairly common. || -
|-
| [[Remington Super Riter]] || 1950 - 1965 || This is the second major shell redesign of the Remington Standard Typewriter. These machines introduced plastic keys, a new curvy shell style, and a green color theme. These machines are fairly common. || -
|-
| Example || Example || Example || Example
|-
| Example || Example || Example || Example
|-
| Example || Example || Example || Example
|-
| Example || Example || Example || Example
|-
| Example || Example || Example || Example
|-
| Example || Example || Example || Example
|-
| Example || Example || Example || Example
|-
| Example || Example || Example || Example
|-
| Example || Example || Example || Example
|-
| Example || Example || Example || Example
|-
| Example || Example || Example || Example
|}

== Portables ==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Name !! Date Range !! Description !! -
|-
| Remington Portable No. 1 || 1920 - 1925 || The Remington Portable no. 1 is a fascinating and common, yet well-built little machine. Very flat, its typebars fold up to type. Early examples may have no right shift key. || -
|-
| Remington Portable No. 2 || 1925 - 1928 || The Remington Portable no. 2 is very similar to the No. 1. Distinguishing features from the No. 1 include curved typebar guards, a one-piece return lever, and various color combinations. These machines were often rebranded and carry rarer name variants including "Porto-Rite" and "Butler Bros.". || -
|-
| Remington Portable No. 3 || 1928 - 1938 || The Portable no. 3 may appear similar to the Nos. 1 and 2, but its typebars do not flip up to a 45-degree angle to write. It also carries a 5-space key, occasionally marked "TAB". Distinguishing features include a lip over the typebars and a smooth top cover, and no left platen knob. The Remington Portable No. 4 is a No. 3 with a true tabulator rather than a 5-space key.|| -
|-
| Remington Portable No. 5 || 1932 - 194X || The No. 5 is very similar to the No. 3 but has a "blockier" appearance--though some came in a streamlined shell. All No. 5s have touch control and left platen knobs. ||-
|-
| Remington Noiseless Portable || Example || Example || Example
|-
| Remington Rem-Ette || Example || Remington's most common Depression machine. Works much like a No. 3, but comes in crinkle grey paint and lacks a bell, tab, and other minor functions. || Example
|-
| Remington - Depression Machines || Example || Bearing such names like "Pioneer", "Scout", and "Cadet", Remington spawned a variety of depression machines that lacked various features from keys to even a front frame. Of note is the Remington 3B, a glossy, bulbous machine that has 3 1/2 rows of keys of which 5076 were built. || Example
|-
| Remington Noiseless 7 || Example || Example || Example
|-
| Remington All-New Portable || Example || Example || Example
|-
| Remington Quiet-Riter || Example || Example || Example
|-
| Remington Torpedo machines || Example || After Remington bought Torpedo in the midst of the Great Depression, it retained control of the company. Remington - Torpedo machines include the Travel-Riter and Torpedo 18S, and are generally mid-to-high quality portables. || Example
|-
| Remington Sperry - Rand Portables || HONESTLY IDK || Example || Example
|}

For more detailed or obscure models, please refer to https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/rem-portables.htm by the good Professor Polt, or join the Discord and we can help you 1 on 1.

==Notes==
The notes are that there are no notes.

Rebuilt Typewriters

2022-03-09T18:26:58Z

SpinierPigeon: /* What are Rebuilt Typewriters? */

__TOC__

=What are Rebuilt Typewriters?=
"Rebuilding" is the process of taking something, like a typewriter or another mechanical object, and tearing it down so that it can be fixed, cleaned, and readjusted, and finally reassembling it. Because typewriters were used heavily in offices, they required this process intermittently. Heavy daily use on a precision machine takes it's toll, so typewriter companies and typewriter shops offered rebuilding services to give tired typewriters a facelift and address any chronic issues that may be caused by worn out parts. Often times this process involved a total or partial tear down of the typewriter, new paint, and sometimes even new features that could be easily added (e.g. key set tabulator, new keys, or new type slugs).

==Who rebuilt typewriters==
Typewriters were rebuilt by the factories that made them or small, independent repair shops. You can tell if a machine was rebuilt by a factory by looking for a rebuild decal. Often times, big companies would stick a sticker or a decal that showed if a machine was rebuilt. Occasionally, you can find a new serial number on the machine as well, stamped in the same place as the old one. Two big companies that rebuilt machines were Remington and Woodstock. Remington often rebuilt [[Remington 10]]s and it's derivatives, stamped them with a new serial number, and put a "Rebuilt by Remington Typewriter Co., Ilion NY" decal on the back frame. Woodstock survived the great depression by rebuilding typewriters instead of manufacturing new ones. These machines are usually Woodstock 5s and 5Ns from the 20's.

==How can I tell if my typewriter is rebuilt?==
The best way to know if a typewriter was rebuilt is to know what different machines looked like fresh out of the factory. Usually, rebuilt machines are from the 20's to the 40's, because rebuilding became big during the Great Depression and WWII as it was much cheaper than buying a new typewriter. Rebuilt typewriters come in many colors and configurations. Sometimes it is obvious, sometimes it is not. The most subtle rebuilds are machines that were not repainted and just had their typeface and keys replaced. Other times, (mostly independent shops) would repaint the machine in a new color not offered in the factory (like crinkle beige or black) and apply very generic-looking decals to replace the ones painted over.

==Are rebuilt machines bad?==
Certainly not! However, rebuilt machines are not usually desirable by collectors because they were altered from their original look. Some people think that the keys don't look right because they were changed out, or maybe the machine is the wrong color.

Rebuilt Typewriters

2022-03-09T18:22:00Z

SpinierPigeon: /* What are Rebuilt Typewriters? */

Rebuilt Typewriters

2022-03-09T18:20:52Z

SpinierPigeon:

Rebuilt Typewriters

2022-03-09T18:20:03Z

SpinierPigeon: Created page with "__TOC__ _What are Rebuilt Typewriters?_ "Rebuilding" is the process of taking something, like a typewriter or another mechanical object, and tearing it down so that it can be..."

__TOC__
_What are Rebuilt Typewriters?_
"Rebuilding" is the process of taking something, like a typewriter or another mechanical object, and tearing it down so that it can be fixed, cleaned, and readjusted, and finally reassembling it. Because typewriters were used heavily in offices, they required this process intermittently. Heavy daily use on a precision machine takes it's toll, so typewriter companies and typewriter shops offered rebuilding services to give tired typewriters a facelift. Often times this process involved a total or partial tear down of the typewriter, new paint, and sometimes even new features that could be easily added (e.g. key set tabulator, new keys, or new type slugs).

__How can I tell if my typewriter is rebuilt?__
The best way to know if a typewriter was rebuilt is to know what different machines looked like fresh out of the factory. Usually, rebuilt machines are from the 20's to the 40's, because rebuilding became big during the Great Depression and WWII as it was much cheaper than buying a new typewriter. Rebuilt typewriters come in many colors and configurations. Sometimes it is obvious, sometimes it is not. The most subtle rebuilds are machines that were not repainted and just had their typeface and keys replaced. Other times, (mostly independent shops) would repaint the machine in a new color not offered in the factory (like crinkle beige or black) and apply very generic-looking decals to replace the ones painted over.

__Are rebuilt machines bad?__
Certainly not! However, rebuilt machines are not usually desirable by collectors because they were altered from their original look. Some people think that the keys don't look right because they were changed out, or maybe the machine is the wrong color.

How to Use Your New (Or Old!) Typewriter

2022-03-09T18:06:11Z

SpinierPigeon: /* Noise Reduction */

Congrats! You got your first typewriter! Maybe you bought it online, or found it in your attic or garage. If you have no idea how to use one of these, this is a good place to start.

__TOC__

==How to Load Paper==

The first step to begin typing is to load paper into your machine. First, take your sheet of paper, put it face up on the table, and grab the top of the paper and flip it over itself. (Pull the top to the bottom) This orients the paper so you type where you want it to type. Now take the paper and drop it behind the platen, the large rubber roller in the carriage. After the paper is dropped in, twist the right hand platen knob clockwise to load the paper in. Load the paper so it is about halfway in, and pull the paper release lever. Next bring the top and bottom corners of your paper together and push the paper release back down. Roll your paper to the top of the page by twisting the right platen knob counter-clockwise, and you are set to begin typing! Don't forget to set your margins!

==Margins==

Margins are used to set how wide your writing line is on your paper. Margins are set in two typical ways. The first is manual margins. Manual margins are set on the back of the carriage. Usually, you just push down on the button on the margin, and move it to your desired position. The other style is "Magic Margins", first introduced by Royal with the KMM in 1939. Instead of moving the margins themselves, you use a button or lever to release the margin, and move the carriage to the desired position for that margin. It is best to check your manual for proper operation, this description is only to give you a introduction to the different types.

==Tabulation==

Tabulation (or tabulating) is for moving the carriage quickly to preset stops, from left to right. Each press of the tabulator button (sometimes called TAB) will cause the carriage to "jump" from your current position to the next tab stop. Note this only works from left to right and does not work in reverse. Tabulating is commonly used for indenting paragraphs and lists, and justifying information, often numbers, on spreadsheets. The latter is commonly done with what's known as a decimal tabulator.

Tabs are set in two ways. The first, commonly found on earlier machines, is to move tab stops from position to position on a rack on the back of the carriage. To set a stop, put a tab stop at the desired position on the scale on the tab rack. The second, commonly found on later machines, is known as a "key set tabulator." The tab rack consists of a bunch of tab stops, which are set by pressing down on the "tab set" key, and cleared with the "clear" key. Simply move the carriage to the desired position and press the "set" key to set a tab stop. Note, many portables also have a tab set/stop lever, which sets tabs when you pull down on it and clears tabs when you push up on it. Whichever tab system you have, be sure to check your machine's manual for proper operation.

Tabs should not be set far apart from each other. Try to keep about 5-15 spaces between each one. If your machine only came with a few tab stops, either put them on the extreme left, or use your hand to slow down the carriage as you tab.

==End of the Line==

Once you reach the end of your line, you should hear a ding. This is the margin warning ding, an auditory warning to let you know that you are at the end of your line. The bell usually rings 5-10 spaces before you end your line. If you are finishing a short word, end it now and use the carriage return lever to move to the next line. If you have a long word, either wait for the end-of-line-lock (a mechanism that locks up the keys so you can't type past the margin) to engage and press the Margin or Marginal Release button, or truncate the word and add a "-" to the latter half of the work on the next line. Whatever you do, try not to type on the platen, as this can damage it.

==Color Selector==

The Color Selector is what the typewriter uses to make use of both halves of the ribbon. Ribbons come in two styles: Monochrome and Bichrome. Monochrome ribbons are one color, while Bichrome ribbons are 2 colors. Bichrome ribbons have one color on top and one on the bottom, usually black and red, respectively. Color selectors usually have 3 settings: Black, red, and stencil (usually indicated by a white dot), not always in that order. Black uses the top half of the ribbon, red uses the bottom, and stencil uses no ribbon. Stencil was used for cutting stencils for Mimeographs. Some machines, like Hermes 3000s, have more than 3 positions on their color selector, which is for the middle of the ribbon. This is so you can get the most use out of a monochrome ribbon, because it is the same color no matter where you print.

==Ribbon Management==

Your typewriter uses ribbons to type. Ribbons should last about 5 months of heavy use, but can last much longer if used less often. Your manual should include instructions on removing and replacing the ribbon. Be sure to store ribbons in an airtight bag or container to prevent them from drying out. 
Different machines have different methods of putting ribbons in (and some don't even use ribbons), but the general idea is that the ribbon is guided through a set of upright holders on either side of where the typeslug will hit it. When threaded, the ribbon should be the thing closest to the paper rather than the guides being closest. 
Typewriters generally have two different kinds of ribbon for printing. It will either have a cloth ribbon or a carbon film ribbon. Cloth ribbons are typically held in large spools and is usually 1/2" thick. Carbon ribbon is usually stored in a cassette located on the carrier of the typewriter and is often only found on electronic typewriters. Fabric ribbons can be used multiple times, while carbon ribbons can only be used once.

==Noise Reduction==

Many typewriters are loud compared to typing on a computer keyboard. The noise can irritate others that live with you and in some cases, even your neighbors. In order to help reduce noise, there are a few simple additions you can make to your stash of typewriter supplies that will help. A typing pad, or a wool mat like those used for pressing small pieces of fabric with an iron, can be used to place a machine on top of it. This will help to reduce noise generated by typing on a hard surface. This is particularly useful with machines that have an open bottom where the mechanism is exposed on the underside of the typewriter as these can often be the loudest machines. Typing pads also help to protect the surface beneath your typewriter from the weight of the machine. Some typewriters can be quite heavy and even the rubber feet can damage the surface of softer woods. The downside of wool typing pads is that they have a tendency to slide around as you type. You can mitigate this by adding a sheet of shelf liner material that has a grip surface under your typing pad or pressing mat. This material is available at most grocery or hardware stores. You can also use cork that is sold in rolls or sheets at craft stores. These materials will stop your typing pad from sliding around as much on your work surface. Another method is to use a sturdier typing surface. Unsecured items or even your typing surface may rattle around, adding to the noise put out by your machine. Be sure that you are typing on a nice, solid surface and that anything that may rattle around when typing is put aside.

Specialized Typewriter Tools

2021-12-31T03:59:01Z

SpinierPigeon: /* Selectric Manual Cycle Tool Extender */

__TOC__

=Introduction=
Like with many other types of repairmen, typewriter repairmen were often provided by manufacturers with specialized tools to complete specific tasks or make certain tasks easier. Here, we will attempt to showcase the many different kinds of tools and their general uses.

=Typebar Tools=

=Key Tools=

Old glass-keyed typewriters would often have their key inserts or even glass covers damaged or stained. Tools existed to promote the usability and longevity of these parts, and often involved replacement of these parts.

=Peening Pliers=
[[File:Tool Peening Pliers.jpg|thumb|right]]
A pair of peening pliers are a set of very strong pliers made to "pinch" metal. The "mouth" of the plier usually has two rounded tips that points against each other. There are other kinds of pliers for other purposes that can also serve as a peening plier, but proper peening pliers are better as they are designed to allow for more squeezing power.

Peening metal is a process where you pinch metal to push it outwards to the sides from where you pinch it. The picture below demonstrates the use of a peening plier on a type arm. Inside each individual frame, the same type arm has been drawn the outlines of (one unique arm in the left frame, another unique one in the right). The striped lines are where the typearm trace draws on the drawing marked 1 after only peening it on the upper part of the arm, and the drawing marked 2 after peening it also lower on the arm as signified with the arrow. On the left frame, the type arm has been peened on the right side of the arm, and on the right frame, the opposite. Again; note the arrows and dots indicating 4-5 peening pinches per spot.
[[File:Peening plier demonstration drawing.jpg|thumb|center]]
Important note: The dotted lines in the drawing is the actual result of peening the metal 4-5 times per step. Particularly for a type arm this is an extreme correction, one you are not likely to have to do to the same degree. This is only done here for the sake of clearly demonstrating which direction metal bends when you peen a certain side. If you want to do peening corrections, make sure you only pinch 1-2 times and then properly test the piece you bent back into the machine to see if that is enough. It is impossible to undo a peening, and you risk having to keep doing counter-adjustments if you go to far, which will only farther distort the metal. Be patient and work gradually.

=Special Wrenches=

=IBM "Semi-Proprietary" Tools=
These tools are not proprietary tools, rather uncommon ones used by IBM. They are included here because there is a good chance that they are not included in many tool sets, and can sometimes be hard to identify.

==Bristol Spline Wrenches==

IBM Standards use Bristol Wrenches or Spline Wrenches on many of the set screws. These can be found on the pulley system for the power roller and on the platen knobs.

=IBM Proprietary Tools=
These tools are special to only IBM Machines.

==Selectric Manual Cycle Tool==
The IBM Selectric has a unique tool used for manually cycling the machine while it is off. This tool usually consists of a handle on one end with a left hand #6 screw on the other. It is designed so that it tightens while turning left and loosens when turning eight, which is the opposite of normal screws. These threads are somewhat small, so use caution when manually cycling the machine or you may shear off the thread.

===Selectric Manual Cycle Tool Extender===
This tool is used specifically in tandem with the Selectric Manual Cycle Tool to allow for manual cycling of the IBM Memory Writer 50, 100, and IBM Composer typewriters. The right side of the operational shaft is right in between the memory bank and power supply of the Memory Writer, and a regular manual cycling tool cannot reach in deep enough to screw into it. The extender is basically a rod with a male left hand thread on one end and a female left hand thread at the other. To use it you simply screw your manual cycle tool into the female end, and then the male end of the extender into the female end of the operational shaft on the machine. It is used just like a Selectric Manual Cycle Tool.

Woodstock No. 5 & 5N

2021-11-08T05:20:50Z

SpinierPigeon: Created page with "Category:Typewriter __TOC__ =History & Basic Info= The Woodstock number 5 and 5N are the successor to the Woodstock No. 3 & No. 4. These were the longest produced mac..."

[[Category:Typewriter]]
__TOC__

=History & Basic Info=
The Woodstock number 5 and 5N are the successor to the [[Woodstock No. 3 & No. 4]]. These were the longest produced machines by the Woodstock Typewriter Company, stretching all the way until 1949.

=Common Problems=
These machines are rather solid, and don't usually require more than a drawband replacement to get running again.

=Documents=

Woodstock No. 3 & No. 4

2021-11-08T05:03:52Z

SpinierPigeon: Created page with "Category:Typewriter __TOC__ =History & Basic Info= The Woodstock Number and Number 4 were made from 1914 until about 1917 as the sucessor to the Emerson typerwiter. After..."

[[Category:Typewriter]]
__TOC__

=History & Basic Info=
The Woodstock Number and Number 4 were made from 1914 until about 1917 as the sucessor to the Emerson typerwiter. After J.C. Roebuck bought the Emerson typewriter company and moved production to Woodstock, IL, the company was renamed the Woodstock Typewriter Company. After a few years of Emerson production, the design was scrapped and a new typewriter was developed from the ground up. This new design became the Woodstock number 3 and number 4. The machines were introduced in an already-full typewriter market, but still managed to do well. These machines featured a bichrome color selector, a ball bearing carriage, a tabualtor, and a half-space escapement. These designs were eventually replaced by the [[Woodstock No.5 & 5N]].

=Common problems=
These machines seem to be rather solid, and should not need more than a drawband replacement. The ball bearing carriage is rather difficult to replace, so it is advised not to take them off.

=Documents=

Smith-Corona

2021-11-08T04:42:12Z

SpinierPigeon: /* Smith-Corona Typewriters */

[[Category:Typewriter Brands]]

Smith-Corona, also known as Standard Folding, Corona Typewriter Co., L. C. Smith and Brothers, L. C. Smith and Corona, and Smith-Corona Marchant, was and is one of the most illustrious typewriter companies to exist.

== '''History''' ==

===As Standard Folding===
In 1906, the Standard Folding Type-Bar Typewriter Co. is established. Engineer Frank Rose created a folding machine that would fold in half, making it a truly portable machine to compete with the one other lightweight model on the market: the Blickensderfer. Having typebars and a more conventional layout, the design had potential. Some 12 000 Standard Foldings were made, and they are a rather rare and desirable machine today. Eventually, the Standard Folding would be rebranded into one of the most popular machines to ever have existed, the Corona 3.

===As Corona===

In 1909, the Standard Folding company was acquired by an investor and moved to Groton, N.Y. In 1912, after a variety of edits had been made to the basic Standard Folding design, it was redesigned and marketed as the Corona 3. This new machine saw great success. A variant, the "3 Special", was introduced in the early 1920s; it featured right-hand shift keys and came in colors like red, blue, and green, or gold inlays on black.
[[File:Corona3.jpg|400x400px|thumb]]

Eventually, the folding 3-bank Coronas were superseded by the Corona 4, a slightly larger machine retaining the distinctive curves of the 3, but adopting a 4-bank standard keyboard. The 3 remained in production until 1941, however, outlasting the 4.

===L.C. Smith and Bros.===

As the Corona typewriter company was rapidly growing, L.C. Smith and Brothers had been making standard office typewriters. Due to legal issues, the former inventors of the [[Smith Premier]] had started a new company, and created a new standard that used ball-bearings in the type arms, rather than a conventional segment. Based out of Syracuse, N.Y., the L.C. Smith was a very popular standard and continued to be produced after the L.C. Smith and Corona merger.

===As Smith-Corona===

In 1925, L.C. Smith and Bros. merged with the Corona Typewriter Co. to create Smith-Corona, formally L. C. Smith and Corona Typewriters Inc. Under the new name, the company launched a new line of midsized portables, the 1 series, commonly colloquially under the moniker "Flattop". All new products were advertised under the Smith-Corona name. Marchant Calculators merged with Smith-Corona in 1958 to create Smith-Corona Marchant, commonly abbreviated SCM. This typewriter powerhouse still exists to this day as a manufacturer of printing machines, as well as related office products.

== '''Smith-Corona Typewriters''' ==

===Portables===

{| class="wikitable"
{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Name !! Date Range !! Description & Rarity
|-
| [[Standard Folding 1 & 2]] || 1904-1912 || Small, silver, and rather rare.
|-
| [[Corona 3]] || 1912-1941 || The improved version of the Standard Folding, rather common.
|-
| [[Corona 4]] || 1924-1941 || A New Design for a New Decade, somewhat uncommon.
|-
| [[Smith Corona "Flattop"]] || 1931-1938|| Nicknamed flattops for their large flat ribbon covers, these machines are not very rare but are very sought after.
|-
| [[Smith Corona Speedline]] || 1938-1949 || The most generic type of Smith Corona portable out there. Crinkle black with white decals. More common than dirt.
|-
| [[Smith Corona 5 Series]] || 1949-1960|| Smith Corona Speedlines but with different shells and new plastic parts. Also rather common.
|}
|}

===Standards===

===Ultraportables===

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SpinierPigeon: /* Common Issues */

[[Category:Typewriter]]
The Smith-Corona "Flattop" was the successor to the Corona 4 and represented a total redesign of the Smith-Corona portable line. They came in 2 main variations: the Standard, which came in a short- and medium- length return lever, and the Silent, the higher-grade version with a tabulator system, paper-table extensions, and a curved return lever. They tend to be viewed quite highly, noted for their light touch and segment-shift.

__TOC__

[[File:Flattop.jpg |frameless|right|400px|''A "Standard" Flattop"]]
=History & Basic Info=
Smith Corona "Flattops" succeeded the [[Corona 4]] in 1931 and was built until 1941. Known as the "1 series" as their serial numbers started with the prefix 1C [Standard] or 1S [Silent], the Flattop was a near-complete redesign from the Corona 4.

=Common Issues=
The typebar linkages tend to come off rather easily on these machines, but are very easy to reattach with just a screwdriver. These machines are very mechanically sound and reliable, so they tend to age very well.[https://youtu.be/4Hdr8ilkwgk?t=1332 Smith Corona Typewriter Typebar Links Off, Repair, Reattach, Straighten, Adjust]

=Documents=
*[https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/CoronaInstructions1937.pdf 1937 User's Manual]

Smith Corona Speedline

2021-11-06T04:36:17Z

SpinierPigeon: /* Common Issues */

[[Category:Typewriter]]
__TOC__

=History & Basic Information=
The Smith Corona Speedline portables span the 2 series, 3 series, and 4 series Smith Corona Portables. The Speedline name is based off the streamlined style of shell (in contrast to the [[Smith Corona "Flattop"]]'s square body). They are equipped with a parallel key action, which holds the key parallel with the writing surface throughout the entire keypress. These machines can be found with a variety of paint jobs, return lever sizes, and names. They are common and reliable machines, but tend to be somewhat overpriced.

=Common Issues=
These machines were plastered with very weak decals, which are often either destroyed or in very bad condition. As with the Smith Corona Flattops, these also have similarly detachable linkages that tend to come off rather easily, but are easily reinstalled. Machines equipped with tabulators are often found missing a few or all of their tab stops. [https://youtu.be/4Hdr8ilkwgk?t=1332 Smith Corona Typewriter Typebar Links Off, Repair, Reattach, Straighten, Adjust]

=Documents=
*[https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/SCFloating1938.pdf 1938 User's Manual (English)]
*[https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/SC1938German.pdf 1938 User's Manual (German)]
*[https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/SmithCoronaFloatingShift1949.pdf 1949 User's Manual (English)]